|The Quarry Wall
Silver Bullet is the 1st route left of the most obvious line (Bone Crusher) on the buttress. It climbs a finger crack in a left-facing dihedral through a crux bulge and out a final roof to a double bolt anchor.
Start with a tricky boulder problem through flaky rock to a hand slot and the first gear. A good spot is recommended. Then fingers for ~50’, through a crux bulge and a final stance before the last 25’ of climbing through a fun roof.
Doubles or triples in finger sized cams and a couple hand-sized pieces. All three of the routes on the main buttress can be toproped, unfortunately its tricky to get over the edge to the anchors. Up top you will find a crack and a bolt, rappel from here over the lip (careful loose rock!) to the anchors on any of the routes.
Joe pulling the final roof.
Joe cruxing on Silver Bullet.
|Comments on Silver Bullet
|By Darren Mabe|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 14, 2008
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a
A bit dirty under the roof. Couple of loose sounding blocks in the roof, but harder than it looks.
|By Dougald MacDonald|
Apr 14, 2008
It's pretty easy to place a medium-size nut with a stick to protect the difficult opening moves.
|By david goldstein|
Apr 14, 2008
A great crack for the Front Range, sustained and thoughtful. Would be four stars w/ better rock.
|By Chris Cavallaro|
Apr 15, 2008
I thought this was definitely 11+, possibly 12a. Holy fingerlocks! Awkward pulling the final roof.
|By Mark Ferguson|
Feb 7, 2009
The opening move protects very well with a yellow C3 Camalot. Great pitch and 12- for sure.
|By Ken Trout|
From: Golden, CO
Feb 15, 2009
I recently cleaned the flakey rock out of that placement. After working the route a bit, it was making me crazy that such a perfect crack had the gnar-gnar start. My partner thought my idea to clean the crack was wrong. Then I read the commnents above and thought: "It's not just me!"
Had there been anything sketchy about cleaning the rotten crack, then Will would certainly have been contacted first. Marks observation require's me to explain why a stick-clip is no longer needed.
|By Scott Bennett|
Mar 5, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a
Thanks Ken for cleaning out the start, I thought it was pretty tricky and was very glad to have a piece in right off the ground. Big thanks to the folks that have been developing this crag, it's a really cool place.
The crux was more sustained than I expected. I thought it was over when I grabbed the jug at the top of the overhanging section, but the next move might have been the hardest (or maybe I was just pumped).
Also, make sure to save a small cam for pulling over the last roof, it's tough to find a piece that's in solid rock up there, but I think I got a pretty good green C3, and my partner said he found a good 0.4 Camalot.