|Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs
WI6+ M9 R
||Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 3 pitches, 480'
|Consensus: ||WI6+ M9 [details]|
|FA: ||Will Mayo, B. Collett, Oct. 2013|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||1,916|
|Submitted By: ||Ben Collett on Oct 30, 2013|
||3 people like this page. Your opinion:
BETA PHOTO: A view of the last two pitches from the top of the...
Steep, pumpy, wild climbing with multiple free hanging daggers characterizes this route. The FA involved a remarkable onsight performance on the crux pitch from Will.
1) From the end of the raps, climb left into the gut of the gully and up a shield of funky, cauliflower ice to a belay left of the hangers at a fixed pin, 250 feet, WI3.
2) Launch up the overhanging crack system, climbing two wild free hanging daggers and finishing on a steep, thin pillar. After 100 feet, belay in a sheltered alcove with a fixed pin on the left. The rock is generally pretty well-protected, but the ice is a little run out, WI6+ M9 R.
3) Follow the ice to the top, past some thin or incomplete curtains, 130 feet, WI 5+ R.
This route lies on the left wall of the Black Wall Gully. Look for the line of hanging daggers.
Screws, a single set of cams to #4 Camalot, nuts, and a few pins.
|By j wharton|
Jan 3, 2014
I climbed this route today (1/3/14) with mixed master Stanley. He onsighted the crux pitch, which was a really nice effort. Despite shivering my way up the crux, I truly enjoyed myself. I think this is one of the best mixed pitches I've done in Colorado! It's also a testament to just how much cooler mixed climbing is when there are widgets rather than bolts involved! Hats off to Ben and Will!
Judging by Ben's photos, It looks like it has a little more ice in places and a little less in others. I would think it should be around for awhile. Other routes and possibilities are also hanging tough, and there are some cool, atmospheric, snow mushrooms around. With the wind whipping over the top of the wall, it felt a lot like Patagonia.
The approach is kind of burly right now, since they've closed the road two miles below Guanella Pass. Between the added distance, strong winds, and deep snow in the willows it took us a solid 3 hours. On the plus side, you only need one rope, since it's very easy to rap the gully down to the base (and this is also necessary since the bolted raps are covered by cornice). No pins, 6 screws, light stopper rack, and a set of cams with a couple extras, looked like it sewed it up!
|By Rob Griz|
Nov 11, 2013
Nice work, boys, stellar line!