Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 480 ft (145 m), 3 pitches
FA: Will Mayo, B. Collett, Oct. 2013
Page Views: 4,290 total · 34/month
Shared By: Ben Collett on Oct 30, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

Steep, pumpy, wild climbing with multiple free hanging daggers characterizes this route. The FA involved a remarkable onsight performance on the crux pitch from Will.

1) From the end of the raps, climb left into the gut of the gully and up a shield of funky, cauliflower ice to a belay left of the hangers at a fixed pin, 250 feet, WI3.

2) Launch up the overhanging crack system, climbing two wild free hanging daggers and finishing on a steep, thin pillar. After 100 feet, belay in a sheltered alcove with a fixed pin on the left. The rock is generally pretty well-protected, but the ice is a little run out, WI6+ M9 R.

3) Follow the ice to the top, past some thin or incomplete curtains, 130 feet, WI 5+ R.

Location Suggest change

This route lies on the left wall of the Black Wall Gully. Look for the line of hanging daggers.

Protection Suggest change

Screws, a single set of cams to #4 Camalot, nuts, and a few pins.

Photos

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