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1. Climb the short, right-facing corner to its top. Traverse out left about 10 feet on a small ledge, then climb the face (this can be done in several places and there is no very obvious line) for 20 feet or so. Diagonal up and right until near the arete and below the roof. After the roof, go up and left to the base of an obvious crack. Climb the crack (crux) and belay on the GT ledge. 5.7+, 130 feet.
2. Scramble up to a large ledge. Climb up and left and out onto the face. Go up past a bulge, then go left again to the top. 5.7-, 100 feet.
From the Arrow wall, walk right and down the hill. Go past the front of the buttress, then look for a very large, right-facing corner. Silhouette goes up the buttress just left of the corner.
Most people start this route by easily scrambling up and left about 30 feet or so to a comfortable ledge that is at the base of this corner. From this ledge, you should easily see the shallow right-facing corner that starts the route.
Standard 'Gunks rack
Oct 19, 2011
I followed it, Karl did a great job of leading both pitches. Lots of interesting moves. First section of P1 kinda scary. Some details ...
start: We scrambled up diagonally left to roughly the same start as Andrew and set up our belay there. There was discussion of more difficult + direct ways we could have reached that point.
P1 - the "traverse out left", I would say "despite the _lack_ of a ledge" -- hands not positive, feet not obvious, rather balancy, rather exposed -- and not sure how far to keep traversing, when to start going upward. Glad I wasn't leading it, I'd be thinking about taking a big swing back to the right.
After P1 we walked about 15 feet left on the ledge to below a broken off-width crack, and from there Karl started leading
P2 - Up the crack and to the large R-facing corner. But instead of climbing the corner, work left on big holds, diagonal up to a little pointy rock. Which was a bit loose, so Karl didn't place any pro behind it, instead got a couple of cams into the horizontal nearby. Then a little more left and up to a ledge.
From: Los Angeles, CA
Jun 14, 2012
try bouldering from the ground up for a spicier start. On the runout section of the 1st pitch, try staying on the right instead of heading left unless you either a) going for the 5.8 roof or b) have a super long sling to avoid the rope drag.
|By Peter Lewis|
From: Bridgton, Maine
Sep 18, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b R
This is a beautiful pitch, but the start is definitely spicy. From the top of the initial right-facing pedestal there is an obvious horizontal heading out left. We tried it both as a foot traverse and then as a hand traverse. The hand traverse felt more reasonable---so, step down off the pedestal and then go left with your hands in the horizontal. After about 15 feet, make the crux moves up (sort of a two-move wonder) and then find larger holds leading up and right (passing a piton or two) until you can skirt the little overhang on its right end. After that, just head up on nice ground toward the obvious hand crack. If you've ever done much jamming you will find the hand crack trivial compared to the crux face moves right off the deck while facing a BIG, swinging, and probably very nasty fall. Easy to do in one pitch.