left side of the cave
This open cave is mostly shady all day with beautiful vertical and overhanging tufa climbing. With about 25 routes, several with extensions, there's plenty to do. Most routes are 5.12 (7a+) and up and the extensions are mostly in the 5.13's (8a) with a few 5.14s, but don't let that stop you if you're climbing 5.11's (upper 6's)! The ones that are there can keep you entertained for a day if your partner is climbing harder, and are well worth doing.
The 2008 guide is quite misleading - getting off on the wrong foot can double the approach time.
Take the paved road up from Skalia and weave your way through the switchbacks, goats and large rocks in the road. After the crest, at the first switchback there's a pullout with a goat fence. DO NOT go to the first demolished house, stay high and left, parallel to the sea and pass directly through two large boulders above the 1st house. This is where you'll pick up the trail with the red dots and from there it is straightforward, passing two more valleys, a house and a gate on the 40 min approach. At the downhill mouth of the cave is a series of fixed lines to get you down. Throwing on a harness and clipping into the fixed line as you downclimb wouldn't be a bad idea.
Weather station 20.3 miles from here
10 Total Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sikati Cave :
Featured Route For Sikati Cave
Lolita 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Europe
: ... : Sikati Cave
The first section contains the crux as evident by copious chalk all around. Staying left seemed correct. From here go through a few easy sections with large runouts and potential for bad falls, reaching the anchors to realize you have enough draws left over to do the extension pitch....[more] Browse More Classics in International
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