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The Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Plague T 
Cozy Overhang T 
Cozyhang T 
Cozyhang 10a Variation T 
Cozyhang Alt. Finish T 
Cozyhang Out T 
Direct T 
Dome Girdle T 
E of East Slab East T,TR 
East Face, Far Right T 
East Face, Farthest Right T 
East of the Sun T 
East Slab T 
East Slab East T 
Evening Stroll T,TR 
Familiar Face T 
Gorilla's Delight T 
Groove T 
Left Edge T 
Owl, The T 
Pinnacle T 
Prelude to King Kong T 
Pussy Cat T 
Signs Of Life T 
Super Squeeze T 
Umph Slot, The T 

Signs Of Life 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 904
Submitted By: Tony B on Mar 15, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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This position is a bit stressful. You need to eith...
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Description 

This route is being posted under an assumed name. In fact, I am certain it has been climbed before, as there were some "signs of life" along the way, not to mention the mere probabilistic notion. I found a trace of chalk up under a big undercling at the bottom of the first overhang. I can not find any prior reference to its existence, so I am listing it as a 'new route' to make it easy to 'find' and publish in guidebook revisions.

To climb this route, head up to the Dome and right, as for Cozyhang. Climb up the face to the left of the East Slab and perhaps 1-2 meters right of the start of Cozyhang, passing a easy but runout slab to catch a thin fingercrack below the center of a bulging set of small, rounded, black grooves. Place gear in the fingercrack and head up into the roofs, underclinging and reaching upwards to hidden jugs for progress. A ledge is found after the roofs, but instead of belaying here, head up and just slightly left to intercept the small but secure pockets and edges on "East of the Sun" to complete on a great face line. Continue on this past 2 diagonal cracks (#1 Camalot in one of them) and to the summit finish as for East Of The Sun.

This is a 2* route that an advanced leader can protect very well. It may require the power to hang out in the crux to place said gear, and so it is not recommended for aspiring 5.9 leaders.


Protection 

A standard rack of stoppers and cams. Small tricams could be used.



Photos of Signs Of Life Slideshow Add Photo
Luke got stung here by a wasp that wanted in to the "one wasp crack" where Luke's cam was. When the wasp wandered off, Luke fired for the top placing only one more piece in fear of the wasp returning.
Luke got stung here by a wasp that wanted in to th...
Big jug crystals where Luke's feet are lead to easier cracks over the final bulge.
Big jug crystals where Luke's feet are lead to eas...
Comments on Signs Of Life Add Comment
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By Cisco
Mar 18, 2003

This route has been done before, mainly soloed, it probably was not listed anywhere due to it being short and that it would end up exiting an already existing line.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Apr 21, 2003

Thumbs up to anyone who would solo this. As for the line being short, it seems to climb a full pitch of independent territory, which is more than I can say for most "variation" routes. As previously stated, since it has obviously been done- historically, I was surprised it was not documented.

By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Apr 2, 2006

Nice climb with a fun stemming overhange with big square crystal jugs. This combined with the East of the Sun slab would be the logical line, but since we'd just done East of the Sun, we finished with the crack right of East Slab.

By Luke Clarke
From: Golden
Sep 14, 2006

The "sign of life" I encountered was a territorial wasp who lives in a finger lock crack (yellow Metolius) at the lip. There's enough room for the cam, and two fingers underneath, but not for all that and the wasp. Got a nasty sting hanging out at the lip. Maybe do this route in cold weather when the little bastard is napping.

By Dragin
Jun 17, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I worked this route years ago when it was extremely dirty. I cleaned it quite a bit before really working the moves. Now it is an amazing variation to East of the Sun, etc. Great holds for traversing left on the overhanging roof and there is also a cool variation if you traverse left before the roof and gain a thin crack on the face.