First pitch starts near the base of the Aguja Frey apron up an easy right facing dihedral to a belay below a steep hand crack. The long second pitch heads heads up the steep hand crack, up a right facing dihedral to where the crack splits. Take the left fork for the 5.9- variation. Follow crack to a massive hanging flake, and belay a few meters up the left side of the flake. Third pitch goes up a steep finger crack to the roof, traverses right below the roof (airy) and descends slightly to bolted belay. The fourth pitch goes straight up the awesome crack above with lots of face holds to a final fun pull at the top.
From the refugio there is a really obvious crack heading straight up the middle of Aguja Frey. This is the route.
We climbed with one set of nuts, and a single set of cams through BD 3.5.
Aguja Frey rising behind Refugio Frey. The route ...
Aguja Frey, profile
James Anderson at the belay for the last pitch.
Apr 20, 2008
Great climb to get used to the area. Short approach too!
|By Rob Dillon|
Apr 21, 2008
This bad-weather standby bears an uncanny resemblance to Hair City/West Butt of the Bastille, I kinda think.
|By Ryan Huetter|
From: Mammoth Lakes, CA
Oct 24, 2009
There are so many fixed pins that we climbed this stellar route with 15 QDs and a set of nuts.
|By Mike A. Lewis|
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 5, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
The route described is actually a link-up of 3 routes, and is called the Sifuentes/Weber/Monte link-up, or something like that. THe actual Sifuentes Weber stays left of the roof on the 3rd pitch and continues to the summit from there. The last pitch of the link-up is the Sifuentes-Monte route. See the guidebooks in Refugio El Frey for more detailed information. Amazing route!