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Morning Glory Spire
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Book of Dissent T 
Brown Flake T 
Crack of Doom T 
Easiest Route T 
Fall Line S 
Incisor T 
Morning Glory S 
Power Tools S 
Reach for the Sky T,S 
Siesta S 
Skyline T 
Strategic Defense T 
Veal Cage S 

Siesta 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Dave Bingham, Ted Thompson 1988
Page Views: 883
Submitted By: Guy H. on Jun 14, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Siesta

Description 

This is the first sport climb to the right of Crack of Doom. This is a tough send at 5.11b. I saw a guy warm up on Stategic Defense and onsight Crack of Doom, but he got shut down on this climb. Go figure...

It is a little runout at the top.


Protection 

draws



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Siesta .11b
Siesta .11b
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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Jul 30, 2006

The book says the first, high clip is easy. I disagree... a fall from the move to get under the bolt would result in serious injury, and it is not easy. On the ledge to the right of the bolt I found a convenient stick for stick-clipping - apparently I'm not the first to find this clip too much to swallow.

Once engaged on the arete, expect challenging, balancey climbing - particularly the opening moves. This is a very difficult onsight for the grade (I didn't get it), but it is definitely easier and less scary then Strategic Defense! Two ledges enroute offer convenient rests.

A worthy tick if you're in the neighborhood!

Gear: 5 bolts. A #0.5 Camalot could be useful between the 2nd and 3rd bolt, and a larger nut helps protect the first clip.

By 426
Mar 21, 2007

Andy is right about the bolts, we did this thing when it was rated 11a (iirc) and it is a stiffy even for b.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 1, 2007
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I thought it was no harder than Fire Water, the other 11b I did there. The "crux" was not really that bad (flashed that, second route ever at the city, warming up). I also think the difficulty of the first climp was reach dependent, as I had no issue with my albatros arms. However, the second clip is on small holds flash-pumped me out. I ended up hanging from the jugs higher on the route!

By Bad Sock Puppet
Sep 9, 2009

A decent bolted line that'll leave you scratching your head at the rating. Actually only one move felt harder than .11b. Holds of all shapes and sizes, oh and don't fall going to that first clip.