Sierra Scrambles
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Hey all, looking for peoples favorite scrambles in the high sierra 5.4 and under. |
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Mt Emerson - SE Face |
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Thanks Ryan any thoughts on the NE ridge of Bear Creek Spire? |
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NE ridge of Bear Creek Spire would be very much in line with what you are seeking I believe. Incredibly scenic! |
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Ryan Watts wrote:N Ridge of Conness is also cool and relatively short. For a slightly longer day maybe look at the W Ridge as well?These are both rated 5.6, although the cruxes on the N Ridge may be rapped. +1 on the NE Ridge of Bear Creek Spire The N Ridge of Lone Pine Peak is rated 5.4, but the crux is a bit stout for the rating. The E Arete on Humphreys is 5.5. For 3rd class recommendations W Chute on Cloudripper (ways to make it harder if you stay to the side of the chute) or the E Arete on Russell. Also, Agassiz is worth doing for the views alone. |
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I like Unicorn Peak, Cockscomb, Echo #4 and #6, N & S Tressider, Columbia Finger. Junction Peak. Many of the Kearsarge Pinnacles. |
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Good suggestions, though IMO tenaya is much much shorter and easier than the others. |
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North Ridge of North Peak to. North Ridge of Mt. Conness is a fun day . |
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That rap on Conness is only a 60 ft rap? I was wondering how long of a rope was needed for it, been question in my mind if it was something I would want to down climb, really would rather not carry the rope |
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East Ridge of Carl Heller |
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Eric Fernandez wrote:That rap on Conness is only a 60 ft rap? I was wondering how long of a rope was needed for it, been question in my mind if it was something I would want to down climb, really would rather not carry the ropeIf in doubt bring a rope, but honestly I thought it was surprisingly easy and secure. Like someone else said I don't know if I would even call that 5.6 (although the book does). YMMV as always. |
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South ridge of the Crystal Crag by Mammoth Lakes has mostly good rock, great views of pretty mountain lakes, and a non-long approach. |
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Eric Fernandez wrote:That rap on Conness is only a 60 ft rap? I was wondering how long of a rope was needed for it, been question in my mind if it was something I would want to down climb, really would rather not carry the ropeIt helps if you spend lots of time practicing down-climbing (like as part of your single-pitch cragging) -- the "dues you pay" in order to not have to carry the weight of a rope. Actually there are two rappels on the N ridge -- that is, two rappel anchor stations, and two rappels are described in the most recent SuperTopo guidebook (one is shorter). The navigation of the down-climbing to avoid them could be a bit tricky the first time -- so I've tried to explain some details in my Comment on the MP page for the N ridge. I think the North Ridge of Mt Conness is more fun than many parties experience, because roped parties higher up start looking for the easiest fastest line (off the ridge) which misses lots of fun climbing sequences. When you're soloing you feel you have lots of time to seek out and play on the most fun ridge sections. Ken P.S. Two ways to game the "bringing a rope" thing: 1a) bring only enough rope for the actual length of the rappel (not for double to retrieve it after rappelling). If none of the climbers can work out the moves to solo (or lead) the down-climb, then tie one end of the rope to the anchor, rappel on a single rope, and just leave the rope behind. 1b) First try to work out the down-climb moves on belay. With luck, you discover you don't have to sacrifice your rope. If this doesn't work, then at least you get to finish the route without carrying the weight of your (non-doubled) rope. 2) first hike to the summit of Mt Conness, and do the N ridge in the overall downward direction, then figure out the rappel sections by climbing up them - (hopefully easier?). If you can't work it out, just climb up the N ridge back to the summit. |
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SirTobyThe3rd wrote:Cockscomb/Unicorn/Echo peaks/Cathedral/Tenaya LaurelYes the ridge-top granite of the Cathedral range on S side of Tuolumne Meadows is great. I'm looking forward to getting on it again in the next couple of weeks. What's your fun way of doing the Cockscomb? SirTobyThe3rd wrote:East Ridge of Carl HellerIsn't it kind of a long hike into Carl Heller? You do that as a day-trip? |
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Laurel is ok, it's fine for a short front country outing, but if you have limited number of days on your trip, skip it for something else. Doesn't have the spectacular elements that most Sierra scrambles have. |
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SirTobyThe3rd wrote:East Ridge of Carl Heller kenr wrote:You do that as a day-trip?Sir Toby does Evolution in a day. |
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"Isn't it kind of a long hike into Carl Heller? |
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Sirius wrote:Carl Heller and Emerson are both high on my list. Report back if you do 'em!I did Emerson SE face a couple of days ago. The summit ridge is really great. There's an interesting sequence at the start, and some other interesting "gully" sequences along the way (but also lots of less-interesting easy scrambling and hiking on less-interesting rock between start and top of climbing section). The disadvantage is much more work than several other routes mentioned here. Like around 4000 vertical feet from the official day-visitor Parking. And the obvious descent includes 2000 vertical feel of rather un-fun sand and scree (so be sure to check the MP beta for ideas of non-obvious descent). Comparing: Mt Emerson: say 1100 ft of interesting ridge climbing (including top section of descent) plus say 600ft somewhat interesting (out of 1800 vertical ft of face/gully climbing), so let's call it 1800 ft of climbing for 4000 vertical feet of total uphill work (approach and climbing). North Ridge of Mt Conness: say about 3000 vertical feet from Sawmill Parking up to summit of Mt Conness. Say 2000-3000 feet of somewhat-interesting climbing (for parties who stay on the ridge, instead of dropping down W side for faster finish). Way better ratio of climbing to work. Which ignores the option of also traversing North Peak before starting the North ridge of Conness - (Lots of people do this). Also ignores another option: Down-climb the whole North ridge for another 2000-3000 ft of climbing (with little additional uphill "work") - (People report having done this, and I'd be glad to do it.) My opinion is that Mt Emerson SE face is not much fun to down-climb. I've never heard of anyone trying it. I bet the analysis of Aretes of Crystal Crag Direct would show a similar result of overwhelming bigger ratio of climbing to work. West ridge of Conness is different because usually do a (non-fun) hiking descent to reach the bottom of the ridge. But if combine with first climbing up the North ridge (also North Peak?) and/or down-climbing the North ridge afterward, then I'd guess West ridge also beats Mt Emerson. And I feel confident that a well-selected "enchainment" of Cathedral Range peaks (S side of Tuolumne Meadows) would have a much better ratio than Emerson. Emerson is good, but there's other stuff to do first. Ken |
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Little Lakes Peak above Rock Creek. Today I climbed up the NNW ridge then down the NE ridge. |
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Hey kenr thanks for the awesome posts. Good info to have. |
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Yellow Brick Road is on Mt Gayley, between Temple & Sill. Good clean fun. |