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Straight Shooter Wall
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Sidewinder 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Rick Dennison & Daryl Ellis - 1991
Page Views: 1,659
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jan 1, 2003
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Sidewinder

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Description 

The bolted climb just right of Straight Shooter. A difficult crux (reachy), and off-balance face climbing reminscent of Eldo. Not bad, but there are better things to climb in this area.


Protection 

Mostly draws as I recall.



Photos of Sidewinder Slideshow Add Photo
Varnish Edging
Varnish Edging
Todd Lane leads Sidewinder~
Todd Lane leads Sidewinder~
Sidewinder
Sidewinder
Boris Lukana on Sidewinder
Boris Lukana on Sidewinder
Comments on Sidewinder Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?
From: Vegas
Feb 17, 2006

What an awesome climb! Crimpy and balancy and super fun! Shares an anchor with Straight Shooter. Don't leave the S.S. Wall without leading or T.R.'ing this one! If leading: Small gear helpful to protect the moves until the first bolt.

By Ian Wolfe
From: Fayetteville, NC
Apr 23, 2006
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c

Wow. Redefined my notion of "thin", "balancy", and "delicate" climbing. Very fun once you figure out the moves (which took me a while!).

By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Feb 14, 2007
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Sorta contrivo and forced. Did it two different ways and neither was all that natural. Drop a TR on it if you are doing Straight Shooter.

By Darshan Ahluwalia
From: Petaluma, CA
Jan 23, 2008
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

This is a hard slab climb which involves big moves to small holds. There really isn't much smearing involved as one poster mentions, its more edging. The climb is technical and much more difficult to lead than toprope. It helps significantly if you are flexible!

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 20, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

quite good, but seems like going to the second bolt on lead would be pretty spooky. tricky and well worth the TR after SS.

By Lacie
Jan 28, 2011

I actually led this one last weekend and didn't think it was too reachy, and I am 5 feet even. Maybe that inspires some confidence in the shorter folk. Good climb, makes ya feel like a ballerina.

By SexPanther aka Kiedis
Jan 26, 2012

Russ might be right about the contrived feeling on this one, but it's pretty damn fun, anyway! Since the big hold broke, I guess people are calling this .11c, I'm not sure on that, but it's a tough onsight for sure. A couple of different ways to do it, either way, heads up getting to the 2nd bolt, and don't cheat over to the crack on the right!

By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Apr 9, 2012

It's the 4th bolt that's tough to get to now that the flake undercling is broke. I lead this about 4 years ago (?? can't remember exactly) and then it was not real desperate climbing and/or clipping a bolt anywhere along the route but in it's present state it's the move above the 3rd bolt getting into position to clip that 4th bolt that is quite stout and technical.

By Pitty
From: Marbach
May 7, 2013

onsighted it today, small things, cool. second bold is not the difficult one to clip more the third and fourth when you are high enough not to deck anymore....