Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
sideways nuts?
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
   Page 1 of 1.  
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
 
By bmdhacks
Jul 24, 2012
Sometimes, usually with shallow cracks, it seems better to place my BD stoppers in sideways. By this I mean using the wider side in the constriction and then trusting that it won't rotate out. This just seems wrong though, so I don't do it.

So my question is, do you guys ever place your nuts in sideways, and is it safe or only as a last resort?

FLAG
By Leeroy
Jul 24, 2012
This post violated Rule #1. It has been removed by Mountain Project.

By BigJuggsjohnson
Jul 24, 2012
Stones
Go for c3's in those. Its not wrong to pace nutts sideways. U will know when a nutts is well set. C3's don't require much finagling with when u need to place. Invest in a set of those. Yea find a mentor who may have them and see how u like placing them.

FLAG
By BigJuggsjohnson
Jul 24, 2012
Stones
One more thing: placing is an applied science so place tons and tons. Find a line with varied crack, get on tr and fake aide it. Place every foot. U will get eye to crack connection that way.

FLAG
By Chris Horton
From Tucson AZ
Jul 24, 2012
Awesomeness!
Troll. Please see Freedom of the Hills.

FLAG
By bmdhacks
Jul 24, 2012
Not a troll, but perhaps I should have researched it more before asking here. I seem to remember the literature saying, "You can do it, but be careful cause they could rotate out." I figured people do it, but I was just trying to gauge how often in real life.

Anyways, thanks for the info, and I suppose I deserve the abuse.

FLAG
By Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Jul 24, 2012
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after...
I don't always place nuts in horizontal orientations, but when I do, I prefer two oppositional placements.

FLAG
By Larry S
Jul 24, 2012
The wife and I road-trippin on the Connie.
bmdhacks wrote:
I figured people do it, but I was just trying to gauge how often in real life.


I place them sideways all the time. Not as often as their normal orientation, but often enough... maybe like 1 out of 10... depends what the rock gives you and what you think fits best. I find i do that pretty much exclusively in the sizes from 9 or 10 up.

FLAG
 
By Don MacKenzie
From Seattle, WA
Jul 24, 2012
I think this is perfectly safe if the placement is secure and the rock is good (as with any placement). That said, I don't generally find myself making sideways placements with Stoppers smaller than #7 or so.

Grab a copy of Long's Climbing Anchors if you want a convenient and authoritative reference for these sorts of questions.

FLAG
By Geir
From Tucson, AZ
Jul 24, 2012
Toofast
bmdhacks wrote:
Not a troll, but perhaps I should have researched it more before asking here. I seem to remember the literature saying, "You can do it, but be careful cause they could rotate out." I figured people do it, but I was just trying to gauge how often in real life. Anyways, thanks for the info, and I suppose I deserve the abuse.


It is no problem to ask.

If turning it to another orientation makes for a better placement, then by all means do so.

FLAG
By TomCaldwell
From Clemson, S.C.
Jul 24, 2012
Me on One Pitch Wonder at Whitesides.  Photo credi...
I do this a lot, especially on granite. I've used just about every size BD sideways at one point. The #3 is a little sketchy because of how little metal is in contact with the rock, but it is effective. There are a lot of podded features that you put the nut in so that it has a small profile then you rotate 90 degrees to make it bigger. It can sometimes take a few extra tries to find the correct width nut to set properly. If it is set, it shouldn't rotate if slung correctly. Using normal and sideways placements increases the overall range of your rack of nuts. Some nuts are also better for this like the WC rocks. They are better because not only is the normal placement tapered, but so is the sideways placement tapered. So it sets much better than the BD stoppers a lot of the time. The one major downside to the WC rocks sideways placement is that unlike the BD stoppers the normal and sideways settings aren't that much different in size.

FLAG
By TomCaldwell
From Clemson, S.C.
Jul 24, 2012
Me on One Pitch Wonder at Whitesides.  Photo credi...
Jake Jones wrote:
I don't always place nuts in horizontal orientations, but when I do, I prefer two oppositional placements.


I don't believe this is what the OP was asking. I think he is referring to a vertical constriction and rotating the nut 90 degrees. This would make sense if he was referring to horizontal constrictions.

FLAG
By John Husky
Jul 24, 2012
It really depends on the shape of the crack/pod.They can be bomber. You'll want to set them with a tug.

My willingness to climb past one also depends on the number of nuts left on the rack. Sometime you gotta make do.

It's not a contest though. If you can get one in the primary config. do it. The more surface area the better.

FLAG
By Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Jul 24, 2012
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after...
TomCaldwell wrote:
I don't believe this is what the OP was asking. I think he is referring to a vertical constriction and rotating the nut 90 degrees. This would make sense if he was referring to horizontal constrictions.


I see. Correct you are, sir. I should really pay more attention.

FLAG
By Robbie Mackley
From Tucson, AZ
Aug 30, 2012
Me and Holden at the "Matterhorn"
If you're concerned that the nut may twist out slap a runner or trad draw on it that twists easily. Climb on.

FLAG
By Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Aug 30, 2012
The Cathedral Spires in RMNP, left to right: Stile...
BigJuggsjohnson wrote:
U will know when a nutts is well set.


MP quote of the month. Can we get a new forum for such things?

What if I say, "Please?"

FLAG
 
By Boissal
From Small Lake, UT
Aug 30, 2012
Sideways stoppers? You mean like those:






What's this nonsense from BigDumb Jongson about a C3 in shallow placements working better?


FLAG
By generationfourth
From Irvine, CA
Aug 30, 2012
I do this with big stoppers all the time. Especially the DMM's have more of a taper than the BD's. With small and medium stoppers I refrain from doing it.

FLAG
By Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Aug 31, 2012
Epic free solo with a pack on
For once...big juggs is on to something:

Nuts are pretty fricken simple to figure out. You put them in a constriction they can't pull through. Sideways or any other fucked up orientation they're not gonna pull through provided you've taken into account the direction of force. Does it really warrant online instruction from interweb geniuses?

FLAG
By Jeremy Hand
Aug 31, 2012
slopey
Jake Jones wrote:
I see. Correct you are, sir. I should really pay more attention.



Jake, you are the king of subtly... just know that you put a smile on other peoples' faces and not just your own. Touche

FLAG
By Tristan B
From La Crescenta, CA
Aug 31, 2012
Hanging out on Royal Arches
Buy a set of these and it will fix all your problems...
wildcountry.co.uk/products/pas...

Everyway is sideways.

FLAG
By Stone Nude
Aug 31, 2012
When dumb people have disposable income, hilarity ...
TomCaldwell wrote:
I don't believe this is what the OP was asking. I think he is referring to a vertical constriction and rotating the nut 90 degrees. This would make sense if he was referring to horizontal constrictions.


Point....missed.

Mutton, you nailed that one. Right under the radar.

FLAG
By TomCaldwell
From Clemson, S.C.
Sep 3, 2012
Me on One Pitch Wonder at Whitesides.  Photo credi...
All Killer No Filler wrote:
Point....missed. Mutton, you nailed that one. Right under the radar.


It wasn't missed. That played-out DOSXX reference didn't work in the context of the discussion.

FLAG


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 1 of 1.