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sideways nuts?
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By bmdhacks
Jul 24, 2012

Sometimes, usually with shallow cracks, it seems better to place my BD stoppers in sideways. By this I mean using the wider side in the constriction and then trusting that it won't rotate out. This just seems wrong though, so I don't do it.

So my question is, do you guys ever place your nuts in sideways, and is it safe or only as a last resort?


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By Leeroy
Jul 24, 2012

This post violated Rule #1. It has been removed by Mountain Project.


By BigJuggsjohnson
Jul 24, 2012
Stones

Go for c3's in those. Its not wrong to pace nutts sideways. U will know when a nutts is well set. C3's don't require much finagling with when u need to place. Invest in a set of those. Yea find a mentor who may have them and see how u like placing them.


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By BigJuggsjohnson
Jul 24, 2012
Stones

One more thing: placing is an applied science so place tons and tons. Find a line with varied crack, get on tr and fake aide it. Place every foot. U will get eye to crack connection that way.


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By Chris Horton
From Tucson AZ
Jul 24, 2012
Awesomeness!

Troll. Please see Freedom of the Hills.


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By bmdhacks
Jul 24, 2012

Not a troll, but perhaps I should have researched it more before asking here. I seem to remember the literature saying, "You can do it, but be careful cause they could rotate out." I figured people do it, but I was just trying to gauge how often in real life.

Anyways, thanks for the info, and I suppose I deserve the abuse.


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By Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Jul 24, 2012
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after a day of cragging.

I don't always place nuts in horizontal orientations, but when I do, I prefer two oppositional placements.


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By Larry S
Jul 24, 2012
The wife and I road-trippin on the Connie.

bmdhacks wrote:
I figured people do it, but I was just trying to gauge how often in real life.


I place them sideways all the time. Not as often as their normal orientation, but often enough... maybe like 1 out of 10... depends what the rock gives you and what you think fits best. I find i do that pretty much exclusively in the sizes from 9 or 10 up.


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By Don MacKenzie
From Seattle, WA
Jul 24, 2012

I think this is perfectly safe if the placement is secure and the rock is good (as with any placement). That said, I don't generally find myself making sideways placements with Stoppers smaller than #7 or so.

Grab a copy of Long's Climbing Anchors if you want a convenient and authoritative reference for these sorts of questions.


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By Geir
From Tucson, AZ
Jul 24, 2012
Toofast

bmdhacks wrote:
Not a troll, but perhaps I should have researched it more before asking here. I seem to remember the literature saying, "You can do it, but be careful cause they could rotate out." I figured people do it, but I was just trying to gauge how often in real life. Anyways, thanks for the info, and I suppose I deserve the abuse.


It is no problem to ask.

If turning it to another orientation makes for a better placement, then by all means do so.


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By TomCaldwell
From Clemson, S.C.
Jul 24, 2012
Me on One Pitch Wonder at Whitesides.  Photo credits to Kyle Jones and his lucky anti-rain jacket.

I do this a lot, especially on granite. I've used just about every size BD sideways at one point. The #3 is a little sketchy because of how little metal is in contact with the rock, but it is effective. There are a lot of podded features that you put the nut in so that it has a small profile then you rotate 90 degrees to make it bigger. It can sometimes take a few extra tries to find the correct width nut to set properly. If it is set, it shouldn't rotate if slung correctly. Using normal and sideways placements increases the overall range of your rack of nuts. Some nuts are also better for this like the WC rocks. They are better because not only is the normal placement tapered, but so is the sideways placement tapered. So it sets much better than the BD stoppers a lot of the time. The one major downside to the WC rocks sideways placement is that unlike the BD stoppers the normal and sideways settings aren't that much different in size.


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By TomCaldwell
From Clemson, S.C.
Jul 24, 2012
Me on One Pitch Wonder at Whitesides.  Photo credits to Kyle Jones and his lucky anti-rain jacket.

Jake Jones wrote:
I don't always place nuts in horizontal orientations, but when I do, I prefer two oppositional placements.


I don't believe this is what the OP was asking. I think he is referring to a vertical constriction and rotating the nut 90 degrees. This would make sense if he was referring to horizontal constrictions.


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By John Husky
Jul 24, 2012

It really depends on the shape of the crack/pod.They can be bomber. You'll want to set them with a tug.

My willingness to climb past one also depends on the number of nuts left on the rack. Sometime you gotta make do.

It's not a contest though. If you can get one in the primary config. do it. The more surface area the better.


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By Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Jul 24, 2012
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after a day of cragging.

TomCaldwell wrote:
I don't believe this is what the OP was asking. I think he is referring to a vertical constriction and rotating the nut 90 degrees. This would make sense if he was referring to horizontal constrictions.


I see. Correct you are, sir. I should really pay more attention.


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By Robbie Mackley
From Tucson, AZ
Aug 30, 2012
Me and Holden at the "Matterhorn"

If you're concerned that the nut may twist out slap a runner or trad draw on it that twists easily. Climb on.


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By Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Aug 30, 2012
The Cathedral Spires in RMNP, left to right: Stiletto, Sharkstooth, Forbidden Tower, Petit Grepon, The Saber, The Foil, The Moon & The Jackknife.

BigJuggsjohnson wrote:
U will know when a nutts is well set.


MP quote of the month. Can we get a new forum for such things?

What if I say, "Please?"


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By Boissal
From Small Lake, UT
Aug 30, 2012

Sideways stoppers? You mean like those:






What's this nonsense from BigDumb Jongson about a C3 in shallow placements working better?


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By generationfourth
From Irvine, CA
Aug 30, 2012

I do this with big stoppers all the time. Especially the DMM's have more of a taper than the BD's. With small and medium stoppers I refrain from doing it.


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By Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Aug 31, 2012
Epic free solo with a pack on

For once...big juggs is on to something:

Nuts are pretty fricken simple to figure out. You put them in a constriction they can't pull through. Sideways or any other fucked up orientation they're not gonna pull through provided you've taken into account the direction of force. Does it really warrant online instruction from interweb geniuses?


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By Jeremy Hand
Aug 31, 2012
slopey

Jake Jones wrote:
I see. Correct you are, sir. I should really pay more attention.



Jake, you are the king of subtly... just know that you put a smile on other peoples' faces and not just your own. Touche


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By Tristan B
From La Crescenta, CA
Aug 31, 2012
Hanging out on Royal Arches

Buy a set of these and it will fix all your problems...
www.wildcountry.co.uk/products/passive-pro/superlight-rocks/

Everyway is sideways.


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By SexPanther aka Kiedis
Aug 31, 2012
Thumbtastic

TomCaldwell wrote:
I don't believe this is what the OP was asking. I think he is referring to a vertical constriction and rotating the nut 90 degrees. This would make sense if he was referring to horizontal constrictions.


Point....missed.

Mutton, you nailed that one. Right under the radar.


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By TomCaldwell
From Clemson, S.C.
Sep 3, 2012
Me on One Pitch Wonder at Whitesides.  Photo credits to Kyle Jones and his lucky anti-rain jacket.

All Killer No Filler wrote:
Point....missed. Mutton, you nailed that one. Right under the radar.


It wasn't missed. That played-out DOSXX reference didn't work in the context of the discussion.


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