Sidewalk Surfing  5.12b

608 page views Good page?

Type:  Sport, 50 feet Consensus:  5.12 [details] FA:  Lee Hansche, 4th o' July 2011 (TRed in the past?) New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  lee hansche on Jul 4, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

The most direct line up the less than vertical face to the left of the Hawaii 5.0 chimney.
Some may call it slab but it climbs like a low angle face. You are mostly on your feet but you need to pull pretty hard on many small sidepulls and underclings. Footwork is king on this tricky little climb.

Start in the middle of the wall under the first bolt. Trend up and left on decent holds to a sharp gaston. The crux starts hear and doesn't end til the 4th bolt. Climb up and right to some small underclings then make a big move right, or if you are under 6 feet tall make a few harder moves to gain the same hold. Continue up good but insecure moves heading back left until you catch a break above the 4th bolt and you can cruise to the top.

This line or one much like it was likely done on toprope in the past. I Believe this is the most pure line up the face and deserved to be bolted and hence, see some traffic. So far people who have seen the line have been psyched to give it a try.

Warning: the difficulty is height dependent but my friend who is not tall (5'5"ish) figured out beta for her so you can to!

Location 

left of the 5.14 sector. Just left of Hawaii 5.0 chimney. Just right of Groupie Fantasy.

Protection 

5 bolts to anchor with fixed biners.

Clipping the 4th bolt was a little delicate for me, but with the right foot holds and body position its not bad.