Type: Sport, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: Lee Hansche, 4th o' July 2011 (TRed in the past?)
Page Views: 3,316 total · 21/month
Shared By: Lee Hansche on Jul 4, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

The most direct line up the less than vertical face to the left of the Hawaii 5.0 chimney.
Some may call it slab but it climbs like a low angle face. You are mostly on your feet but you need to pull pretty hard on many small sidepulls and underclings. Footwork is king on this tricky little climb.

Start in the middle of the wall under the first bolt. Trend up and left on decent holds to a sharp gaston. The crux starts hear and doesn't end til the 4th bolt. Climb up and right to some small underclings then make a big move right, or if you are under 6 feet tall make a few harder moves to gain the same hold. Continue up good but insecure moves heading back left until you catch a break above the 4th bolt and you can cruise to the top.

This line or one much like it was likely done on toprope in the past. I Believe this is the most pure line up the face and deserved to be bolted and hence, see some traffic. So far people who have seen the line have been psyched to give it a try.

Warning: the difficulty is height dependent but my friend who is not tall (5'5"ish) figured out beta for her so you can to!

Location Suggest change

left of the 5.14 sector. Just left of Hawaii 5.0 chimney. Just right of Groupie Fantasy.

Protection Suggest change

5 bolts to anchor with fixed biners.

Clipping the 4th bolt was a little delicate for me, but with the right foot holds and body position its not bad.

Photos

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