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Sidewalk Buttress

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Sidewalk Buttress  

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Administrators: Mike Snyder, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: richard magill on Sep 7, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Psychoactive Wall- Shady side of Leigh Creek Canyo...


A really fun place to do long and challenging sport routes. Routes may go as long as 160 feet in a single overhanging mega-pitch.

The stone here is a bit out of the ordinary as well. Super-pocketed. Not bullet hard like most of the canyon, not compact like at the Dry wall. Best description would be sort of like swiss cheese rock. You won't find any lack of things to pull on, it will just be a matter of keeping the pump down.

This is one of the earliest crags to go in at Tensleep. Stan Price bolted several routes here back in the 80's. There are actually lots of bolts on the routes, so don't expect big run outs.

For my taste, the stone here is not as good as up at the Mondo Beyondo area, but if you want to hit some steep stuff lower in the canyon (like on a cold day), this is definitely a place you will enjoy. And just a trip up the 160 foot "Where the Sidewalk Ends" (11b) is worth a visit all by itself.

The crag faces southwest so it is shady in the morning and sunny in the afternoon - the heat is typically sweltering late in the day. Plan on hitting this in the AM and then pop over to all the new routes on the other side of Leigh Creek for the afternoon.

Getting There 

At the very bottom of the canyon, down around 4000 feet. Park at or near the campground at the bottom of the Canyon, and follow an obvious trail for a few hundred yards up to the cliff.

Pretty easy to spot - about 200 feet tall and overhanging with bolts, chalk and all that.

Climbing Season

Weather station 10.4 miles from here

5 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sidewalk Buttress:
Where the Sidewalk Ends   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 160'   
Sheep Reaction   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 125'   
If Dreams Were Thunder   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 80'   
Browse More Classics in Sidewalk Buttress

Featured Route For Sidewalk Buttress
looking down from the top....

Where the Sidewalk Ends 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Sidewalk Buttress
Great route, seems like a bit of an earth journey for a sport route - 160 feet of high quality steep pulling. The route is overhanging but there are several breaks and ledges where you can get good rests. The crux is near the top where you will definitely feel a pump. Of all the routes here, this one also has the highest stone quality.Super classic!...[more]   Browse More Classics in WY

Photos of Sidewalk Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Lower Psychoactive- Shady side of Leigh Creek Cany...
BETA PHOTO: Lower Psychoactive- Shady side of Leigh Creek Cany...

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