Sideshow  5.10d

581 page views Good page?

Type:  Sport, 80 feet Consensus:  5.10d [details] FA:  Submitted By:  blakeherrington on Aug 21, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

A fantastic sport climb using small edges and sidepulls to move across a disquietingly blank-looking wall. The moves all work out and its easier than it appears from the ground. Watch out for the sting in the tail, with a cruxy sequence coming just before the chains.

Location 

This route begins atop the large block/flake just left of the thin crack "earwax". A belay bolt is in place, and the route moves up and right, with a 5.11+ direct start coming in from below around bolt #4.

This is generally on the left side of the UTW, past the start to Davis-Holland, Lamplighter(Heaven's Gate), Dana's Arch, and Earwax. The large roofs above will keep this climb dry for a bit during the rain.

Protection 

Fully bolted, with fixed 'biners in the chaines. Take 8 (or so) quickdraws.