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A fantastic sport climb using small edges and sidepulls to move across a disquietingly blank-looking wall. The moves all work out and its easier than it appears from the ground. Watch out for the sting in the tail, with a cruxy sequence coming just before the chains.
This route begins atop the large block/flake just left of the thin crack "earwax". A belay bolt is in place, and the route moves up and right, with a 5.11+ direct start coming in from below around bolt #4.
This is generally on the left side of the UTW, past the start to Davis-Holland, Lamplighter(Heaven's Gate), Dana's Arch, and Earwax. The large roofs above will keep this climb dry for a bit during the rain.
Fully bolted, with fixed 'biners in the chaines. Take 8 (or so) quickdraws.
Dec 30, 2008
I also added this route to the Earwax Wall area.
|By jeff walker|
Jul 14, 2009
greg collum did the first ascent of this route. good warm up.