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Earwax Wall
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Sideshow 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
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Page Views: 788
Submitted By: blakeherrington on Aug 21, 2008

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Description 

A fantastic sport climb using small edges and sidepulls to move across a disquietingly blank-looking wall. The moves all work out and its easier than it appears from the ground. Watch out for the sting in the tail, with a cruxy sequence coming just before the chains.


Location 

This route begins atop the large block/flake just left of the thin crack "earwax". A belay bolt is in place, and the route moves up and right, with a 5.11+ direct start coming in from below around bolt #4.

This is generally on the left side of the UTW, past the start to Davis-Holland, Lamplighter(Heaven's Gate), Dana's Arch, and Earwax. The large roofs above will keep this climb dry for a bit during the rain.


Protection 

Fully bolted, with fixed 'biners in the chaines. Take 8 (or so) quickdraws.



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By Drewsky
Dec 30, 2008

I also added this route to the Earwax Wall area.

By jeff walker
Jul 14, 2009

greg collum did the first ascent of this route. good warm up.