A fantastic sport climb using small edges and sidepulls to move across a disquietingly blank-looking wall. The moves all work out and its easier than it appears from the ground. Watch out for the sting in the tail, with a cruxy sequence coming just before the chains.
This route begins atop the large block/flake just left of the thin crack "Earwax". A belay bolt is in place, and the route moves up and right, with a 5.11+ direct start coming in from below around bolt #4.
This is generally on the left side of the UTW, past the start to Davis-Holland, Lamplighter(Heaven's Gate), Dana's Arch, and Earwax. The large roofs above will keep this climb dry for a bit during the rain.
Fully bolted, with fixed 'biners in the chaines. Take 8 (or so) quickdraws.
Dec 30, 2008
I also added this route to the Earwax Wall area.
|By jeff walker|
Jul 14, 2009
greg collum did the first ascent of this route. good warm up.
|By Jon Nelson|
4 days ago
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Very fun route, especially the last few moves.
Compared to the other moderate on the wall, The Black Flag..., this route has more rests and seems slightly easier.