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BETA PHOTO: This is the beginning of sidekick. It heads out l...
Follow crack system up and to the left of the bulge. Bring a hand-size piece of gear if you don't want to run it out between bolts (groundfall potential). Continue around corner and up to anchors.
20ft left of Velcro Bootie.
5 bolts + gear?
|By Dave Wachter|
Jan 27, 2009
Great route, makes a good warm-up if you want to climb at the entrance area without walking too far in. Technical feet and insecure palming between the first and second bolts (that's where you plug in the green or purple camalot, which IS necessary for avoiding potential ground-fall), then steep but pretty juggy to the top. Booster rock at the base for short people to get on.
Jackson (Falcon Guide to NM) calls this climb 10c and recommends avoiding it. Two comments: 1) It's not 10c - don't get on it if you can't climb at least 11a; 2) I'm happy to know that Dennis Jackson won't be hanging around next time I get on it.
From: Albuquerque, NM
Aug 6, 2009
It is not PG13 once you place the cam, for what it's worth.
Oct 10, 2009
rating: 5.11a PG13
it is interesting that this one is 'mixed' but gunslinger is not - the first half of gunslinger could be done on gear. 'mixed' ethics only apply to certain grades i suppose.