Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
Again, expect big exposure while approaching, climbing and even belaying this route. This is a pitch for the "been there done that" 5.12 leader. Make sure you and your partner can communicate due to the noise.
Start as for the 5th pitch of the Naked Edge. At the top of the ramp, bust up and left towards the obvious ring bolts. Pimpy thin moves will end up with runout, but reasonable climbing (#3 Camalot) to the top.
This route and Wingless Victory can both be approached by rapping from the top of the Naked Edge. Throw your rope out and backclip as you rap to the belay. Have fun!
7 bolts and a #2 Camalot or #3 Friend (for up top) is required. The belays are the same as the 5th pitch of the Naked Edge.