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 ADVANCED
Lower Peanuts
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Air Guitar T,S 
Aspenleaf Dihedral T 
Black Pearl S 
Blows Against the Empire T 
Chaucer T 
Cornered, straight up variation T 
Criller AKA Dwayne and Craig's Exellent Adventures T,TR 
Dihedral T 
Do or Do Not T 
Double Cracks T 
Easy Off T 
Empire Strikes Back, The T,TR 
Evangelium Vitae (The Gospel of Life) T,TR 
Faith, Hope and Charity T 
Fickle Finger of Eight T 
Forbidden Planet S 
Good Mourning T,TR 
Home Free T 
Jackson Browne (aka Fluid Power) T 
Just Another Girl's Climb T,S 
Let's Jet S 
Narrow Gate, The T 
No Visible Means of Support T 
Nova T,TR 
Off The Cuff T 
Peanuts T 
Pretender, The T 
Right Escape T 
Sacred and the Profane, The S 
Scorpions T 
Shield, The T 
Sickle T 
Star Track T,TR 
Strata Outta Compton T 
Strolling T 
Tracer T 
Trouble And Strife T,TR 
West Crack (aka Star Wars) T 
Whiskey Gala T 
Wired T 
X-Wing T,TR 
Young, Blonde, and Easy T 
Your Basic Lieback T 

Sickle 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: J. Stuberg, solo, 1981
Season: Faces West/Northwest. Afternoon sun.
Page Views: 134
Submitted By: Tony B on May 27, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

There is nothing really wrong with this climb but not much to recommend it either. The FA was done solo, which makes sense considering it is more like an easy boulder problem than an actual route. Just a few feet right of Fickle Finger of Eight, a thin crack leads up under a right-leaning, arching "crack" that becomes a horizontal slot. It arches right a few feet then ascends to a ledge. The horizontal section is the awkward crux and has a few loose bits of rock in that that can be easily enough avoided.

Location 

This route starts a meter right of Fickle Finger and finishes a few meters right, at the same ledge.

Protection 

A few small pieces and a large cam for the horizontal slot. Above the slot, one of several things could be placed - so a standard light rack has you covered.


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By Ben Burnett
From: Colorado
Aug 8, 2012
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Easily protected the whole way, especially if you bring a #4 Camalot or similar. Fun but short, crux at bottom.