There is nothing really wrong with this climb but not much to recommend it either. The FA was done solo, which makes sense considering it is more like an easy boulder problem than an actual route. Just a few feet right of Fickle Finger of Eight, a thin crack leads up under a right-leaning, arching "crack" that becomes a horizontal slot. It arches right a few feet then ascends to a ledge. The horizontal section is the awkward crux and has a few loose bits of rock in that that can be easily enough avoided.
This route starts a meter right of Fickle Finger and finishes a few meters right, at the same ledge.
A few small pieces and a large cam for the horizontal slot. Above the slot, one of several things could be placed - so a standard light rack has you covered.
|By Ben Burnett|
Aug 8, 2012
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c
Easily protected the whole way, especially if you bring a #4 Camalot or similar. Fun but short, crux at bottom.