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Project Wall
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Unsorted Routes:

Sick Little Monkey 

YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]
FA: Dave Pegg
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 617
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Jul 23, 2003

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Description 

This is an old project on the far left side of the Project Wall (where everyone urinates pre-redpoint) that got cleaned up a bit and sent. It climbs a grey-and-white-streaked face to a big bulge to a bit of blue stone above, and is back behind the trees.

Climb the vertical face on sidepulls and crimps to a first-set of anchors (given 11d, feels harder). Lower off, or continue right into the bulge and a gymnastic crux sequence on slopers that takes you to a good little brick, then layaways, above the bulge. The 13c rating assumes you do both pitches as one, without weighting the first set of anchors. Bring a good heel-toe hooking shoe.

Protection 

10-12 quickdraws.


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By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
May 26, 2008

The new guide lists the climbing to the first set of anchors as 11c but it is rather dirty and uninspiring in its present condition.