Sick for Toys
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This route would probably be quite popular if any of the guidebooks actually told you where it is. It is NOT near the Western Spaces Wall. Approach by going up the south fork of Black Velvet Canyon, past the start of Epinephrine, to the fork at the white slab. Here, take the right branch up the wash along the north side of Corduroy Ridge. About two or three hundred yards past the white slab, the canyon widens and there is a large beautiful slab on the left side. Sick for Toys is the thin fingertip crack on the left side of the slab.
Pitch 1: A broken ledge system stretches across the lower left side of the slab, beneath a few layers of roof-arches. Start below the right end of these ledges, just to the left of a bush. The boulder that simplified the opening moves has been washed away, so the first fifteen feet involve some balancy 5.9 with a bad landing. Once you get onto the easy rock, go a long way to the left. When leftward progress is finally blocked by the arches (maybe 50 feet or so), climb over them to a bush. Go right and up on easy face climbing for quite some distance to a bolted belay station at the base of the thin crack. Other than the first few moves, the climbing is 5.5 and under. The issues of rope drag, spotting the leader, and protecting the second provide some challenge on this otherwise easy pitch.
Pitch 2: Climb straight up the crack (5.8) to a hanging belay at two more bolts. (From this belay, look down and right about 30 feet to a bolted station on the blank face. This can be reached in a long rappel from the top of the route, and allows a somewhat straighter descent.)
Pitch 3: Continue up the vanishing crack (5.10b), passing 4 bolts to another belay station on a tiny ledge.
Pitch 4: Climb up past a bolt, jog briefly right to surmount the roof, then continue up the finger crack above. A second bolt protects difficult climbing (5.10d) to easier rock and the top anchor.
Wires, small cams up to #3.
The first pitch starts with some friction moves to...
At the far left end of the the first pitch travers...
The thin crack on pitch 2 goes up a very clean sla...
On pitch 3 the crack starts to disappear. The sli...
On the 4th pitch, the slab steepens...
Nearing the top of the second pitch thin crack
|Comments on Sick for Toys
|By chad umbel|
Jan 1, 2006
Climbed this route in February of 05 with my brother. Very high-quality slab climb on perfect stone. Be prepared for hard slab moves on the last pitch. Also beware of old quarter-inch bolts for anchors.
Definitely needs to be re-equipped with fresh bolts for belays. We cut away all the old tattered webbing on the anchors and replaced with new slings and carabiners.
|By C Miller|
Mar 12, 2006
The name comes from a song on "Life's Too Good", a 1988 release from the Sugarcubes.
Jan 11, 2008
There is an alternative bolted start which I felt went at maybe 5.10+ or so. It is pretty height dependant. Rather than doing the traditional start mentioned in the description by Larry, look for a line of bolts to the left. If I remember correctly there are 3 or 4 and they take a more direct line up to the bushes. Slinging the bush above the last bolt or placing a piece might be a good idea to protect your second. There are a couple thin moves above that bolt and if you swing out left there are not to many holds on that slab.
I have not done the original start but the bolted variation is fun and gets you ready for more thin technical slab to come.
|By Josh Audrey|
From: LAS VEGAS
Jun 5, 2009
threw new slings on the top of the second pitch and the last rappel today.
|By Tim Wolfe|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 10, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13
The bolted line to the left on the start of the first pitch actually also has bolts over the roofs for a direct line to the first belay at about a 5.10+/11a grade and offers less risk of a big swing to the second climber. The route is a true slab climb as opposed to the usual steeper edge climbing more typical in Red Rocks. Fun, thin, and old school ratings.
|By J. Thompson|
From: denver, co
Sep 19, 2011
Any info on the descent?
I'm assuming you rappel?
One rope or 2?
|By Josh Janes|
Sep 25, 2011
You rap the route with two ropes: The first rap, from the top anchor, takes you to an anchor out on the center of the face. From here a second rap brings you back to the ground.
On 9/2011 the remaining bad bolts at the anchors were replaced with 1/2" ASCA hardware and the two rap stations were improved with quicklinks. All the pro bolts appear to be in good shape. There is still one old bolt stud at the first anchor and two at the second anchor which need to be pulled and holes patched.
We cleaned all the tat from the anchors on the route and it should be noted that rapping requires finishing the route - bailing early will necessitate leaving more tat at the anchors.
This route is very difficult (old school ratings) for the grade but absolutely awesome.
From: Las Vegas
May 7, 2012
This formation has an east aspect and gets a lot of sun this time of year.