Type: | Trad, 5 pitches |
FA: | George Hurley & Bill Forrest, 1971 |
Page Views: | 1,269 total · 5/month |
Shared By: | Erik Corkran on Jun 30, 2001 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/28/23
Details
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
Counting left to right from Bombay Chimney, this is the 5th chimney line on the Bookend. It begins in a large chimney just left of a bolted route. This is a nice route, though I did not find it as good as Corinthian Column or Bombay.
P1. Enter the fairly easy but grungy gully/chimney through the bushes or come in from the left (better), climb into a tighter chimney and through a pinch to belay, 5.8+ or so, 100 feet.
P2, crux. Continue up (past a crumbly crack) to the steep flared chimney. Pass the flared pinch, insecure, 5.9+, which becomes much easier after about 20'. I found this more difficult than the section of Turnkorner labelled 10a 12" Squeeze (below the roof crux pitch) on the Rossiter topo, so graded it 5.9+ instead of 5.9. Also more difficult than other 5.9 chimneys in the area. The extra gear mentioned is for this pitch. I shoved a #4 Camalot along for quite a ways, sometimes leapfrogging with a mostly-tipped-out #3. Belay at a ledge with a big boulder, or continue for 30 feet of handcrack with a couple of chimney moves to another good belay.
P3. Climb the crack just mentioned (if you haven't already) which turns into a chimney, and continue to a big ledge, 5.8 or so, 140 feet.
P4. Walk left along the big ledge and climb the crack that stops about 5 feet off the ledge (this pitch and the next are the same as for Corinthian Column).
P5. Cross to the main buttress and climb big jugs for 150 feet to the summit, one nice crack section in the middle of the pitch (optional).
Descend the trail in the gully between the Bookend and Left Book / Bookmark.
P1. Enter the fairly easy but grungy gully/chimney through the bushes or come in from the left (better), climb into a tighter chimney and through a pinch to belay, 5.8+ or so, 100 feet.
P2, crux. Continue up (past a crumbly crack) to the steep flared chimney. Pass the flared pinch, insecure, 5.9+, which becomes much easier after about 20'. I found this more difficult than the section of Turnkorner labelled 10a 12" Squeeze (below the roof crux pitch) on the Rossiter topo, so graded it 5.9+ instead of 5.9. Also more difficult than other 5.9 chimneys in the area. The extra gear mentioned is for this pitch. I shoved a #4 Camalot along for quite a ways, sometimes leapfrogging with a mostly-tipped-out #3. Belay at a ledge with a big boulder, or continue for 30 feet of handcrack with a couple of chimney moves to another good belay.
P3. Climb the crack just mentioned (if you haven't already) which turns into a chimney, and continue to a big ledge, 5.8 or so, 140 feet.
P4. Walk left along the big ledge and climb the crack that stops about 5 feet off the ledge (this pitch and the next are the same as for Corinthian Column).
P5. Cross to the main buttress and climb big jugs for 150 feet to the summit, one nice crack section in the middle of the pitch (optional).
Descend the trail in the gully between the Bookend and Left Book / Bookmark.
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