SIC FUN RAMP AKA:THE ACCELERATED CURVE
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 215', Grade II|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]|
|FA: ||Paul Bucher and Roger Hedlund|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||328|
|Submitted By: ||paul bucher on May 22, 2013|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
climb the obvious ramp up to the roof. pass the roof (crux) utilizing face holds left. 10+ or C1+. continue up the ramp to bomber anchors just before a large boulder (where the rock quality deteriorates). double 70s (MANDATORY) off. we had some rope left on the ground. not sure if double 60s would make it. crazy good rap off over the mouth of the cave. great route. looks easy, a little deceiving; a bit harder than it looks. pretty clean for a new route with good rock quality. the ramp is detached, so it's also an arch.
100+ yards right of kings hand. very obvious ramp and cave. nice little ledge and shade tree at the base of the route. start up the ramp below the roof. one double 70s (MANDATORY) rap to the deck.
camalots: singles to #2, double or triple #3s, optional #3 1/2s, optional #4s, double or triple #5s, double or triple #6s. runners. a 3 and or 4 big bro would probably be useful. i didn't have them. no stoppers or hexes needed. bomber, power drilled anchors up top with 2 1/2 by 4 3/4 bolts and one 1/2 by 3 3/4.
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|By paul bucher|
From: moab, utah
Oct 31, 2013
mark and laura-lynn got the second ascent. #3 (and 4) big bros were the ticket. also we think you may make it down with double 60s. they both crushed it. they called it 10+ on the sharp, 10B on the dull or old school (laton kor or chuck pratt) 5.9.