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Siberia is the attractive light and dark brown formation rising just north of the trail to Willow Hole with numerous one and two pitch routes on it's large south face. Yasmine Bleeth (5.9) and Dos Chi Chis (5.10a) are the most sought after routes here, but several other good routes are to be found as well. Some shorter routes are also found on the shady north face in the Siberian Corridor. Kublai Corner (5.8), Mongoloid (5.9) and Broken Dreams (5.11b) are the best of those.
Park in the large paved lot at Key's Corner and hike north following a well-defined trail. 1.25 miles after leaving the parking area the trail forks - left along the Boy Scout Trail, which leads to Indian Cove, and right to Willow Hole and deeper into the northern Wonderland. Take the right fork and continue hiking for another 0.75 miles and then leave the trail at a point marked by a trails sign. Follow, at times, an ill-defined trail to a point near the base of the formation and then boulder hop to the base. Plan on an hour for the approach.
23 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Siberia:
Irish Toothache 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Cross-Roads Finish 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
George's Route (aka Binder) 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Yasmine Bleeth 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
A Bull with Gas 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Love Gas 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Dos Chi Chis 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport, 2 pitches, 240'
Showers With Dad 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Featured Route For Siberia
Dos Chi Chis 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Siberia
This high-quality two-pitch face climb is located on the right side of the south-facing, central buttress just right of Yasmine Bleeth (5.9). P1) Climb steep slab (5.9+) with intermittent patina past 7 bolts and one fixed pin to an intermediate belay, clip the belay and climb past two more bolts to a bolted belay on a spacious ledge. P2) Climb up and left from the left side of the ledge to a vague arete past 5 bolts via insecure smears (5.10a) to the top of the formation. Descend...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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