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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Bull with Gas S 
Bazooka, The T 
Ben Scabbyface T 
Broken Dreams T 
Child Proof T 
Cross-Roads Finish S 
Dos Chi Chis S 
Gandy S 
George's Route (aka Binder) S 
Glen's Crack T 
Hollywood Rattlesnake T 
Irish Toothache S 
Jack T 
Kublai Corner T 
Leon Redbone S 
Love Gas S 
Old Hornington T 
Original Route (aka Jake Off) T 
Randy T 
Showers With Dad S 
Toby S 
Weo S 
Yasmine Bleeth S 
Unsorted Routes:


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Page Views: 20,313
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: C Miller on Feb 27, 2006
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Siberia, telephoto from Land's End. A climber can ...


Siberia is the attractive light and dark brown formation rising just north of the trail to Willow Hole with numerous one and two pitch routes on it's large south face. Yasmine Bleeth (5.9) and Dos Chi Chis (5.10a) are the most sought after routes here, but several other good routes are to be found as well. Some shorter routes are also found on the shady north face in the Siberian Corridor. Kublai Corner (5.8), Mongoloid (5.9) and Broken Dreams (5.11b) are the best of those.

The somewhat lengthy hike and minimal amount of information about the area ensures that you'll likely be the only party at this remote and wild-feeling crag. Please stick to established trails and help to maintain the special feel this area has.

Getting There 

Park in the large paved lot at Key's Corner and hike north following a well-defined trail. 1.25 miles after leaving the parking area the trail forks - left along the Boy Scout Trail, which leads to Indian Cove, and right to Willow Hole and deeper into the northern Wonderland. Take the right fork and continue hiking for another 0.75 miles and then leave the trail at a point marked by a trails sign. Follow, at times, an ill-defined trail to a point near the base of the formation and then boulder hop to the base. Plan on an hour for the approach.

Climbing Season

Weather station 8.2 miles from here

23 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',14],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Siberia:
Cross-Roads Finish   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
George's Route (aka Binder)   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
A Bull with Gas   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Yasmine Bleeth   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Toby   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Love Gas   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Dos Chi Chis   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 2 pitches, 240'   
Showers With Dad   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Classics in Siberia

Featured Route For Siberia
Tim Pinar on Cross Roads finish to George's Route.

Cross-Roads Finish 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Siberia
This route begins off the lower left side of the ledge found on George's Route [route 476], after that route's 6th bolt. Probably it is best to climb all of George's Route and then make a short (35 foot) rap back down to the ledge. Head up and left onto the ridge of the very narrow buttress of rock and follow it past 6 bolts (1 of which is entirely unnecessary) and 1 fixed pin. You end at a large ledge in a saddle below and right of the summit of Buttress 2. This route is clearly seen as the na...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Siberia Slideshow Add Photo
J. Smith starting P2 of Showers with Dad
J. Smith starting P2 of Showers with Dad
Siberia (south face) - Yasmine Bleeth (5.9) and Dos Chi Chis (5.10a) climb the light-colored buttress just right of the high point.
BETA PHOTO: Siberia (south face) - Yasmine Bleeth (5.9) and Do...
As viewed from the approach gully, this portion of Siberia (Western Siberia) is where many of the moderate (but run-out) trad lines are.
BETA PHOTO: As viewed from the approach gully, this portion of...
Routes "Dos Chi Chi's and "yasmine Bleeth" lie below pointer
BETA PHOTO: Routes "Dos Chi Chi's and "yasmine Bleet...
Siberia Buttresses. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Siberia Buttresses. Photo by Blitzo.
Sibera from the top of Asian Fever Buttress. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Sibera from the top of Asian Fever Buttress. Photo...
Siberia in late afternoon light from the approach.
BETA PHOTO: Siberia in late afternoon light from the approach.
Siberia Slab from the southwest. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Siberia Slab from the southwest. Photo by Blitzo.
East Siberia
East Siberia

Comments on Siberia Add Comment
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By Nick Y.
Apr 1, 2012
After taking the right fork, the next turn is no longer marked by a 'small cairn' - it is now a trail marker for "Climber's Trail" for Outer Mongolia.

Read "Hollywood Rattlesnake" Description carefully if coming to this area. Four great climbs right on top of each other. Any chance an admin could make a legit entry for "Showers with Dad"?
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Feb 19, 2013
Approaching Siberia is a fine adventure, but the most direct route through the boulders from the sign isn't really the best. If you continue west and follow the wash around the high rock formation, right of the sign, there is a much easier route through the boulder field with fewer big drops and less climbing over boulders. I'm not trying to promote more social trails, but the one that is signed is arduous with anything bigger than a light pack.