Poor holds right off the ground lead to steep moves on good holds past the first bolt. (Stick clip useful). Romp up to the 3rd bolt and get a good rest. The fixed nut is pretty good and can be backed up with a .5 camalot or 1-1.5" piece. Fight up the overhanging layback to a stance and a bolt. Work left on good holds to a nice rest. Quest up the face past a mix of bolts and gear until you make it to a roof way up high. Pull another solid 5.11/11+ crux past closely spaced bolts. Some more easy cl...[more]Browse More Classics in CA
I think that there are some places that are better left as "choose your own adventure" areas. Luckily there are a bunch of places like this left in the Sierra (Cal Dome, Hwy 108, Southern Sierra, Shuteye). For these areas I am in some sense glad that there is minimal info because it keeps the place a bit more wild (i.e. there are plenty of destinations to choose from that are info'ed into submission...The Leap, Tuolumne, the Ditch, etc). The guidebook is nice, but I would submit that part of what makes Shuteye special is exploring, which I might add, you really had to do prior to the book being published. That said, the book is wonderful and I would recommend picking it up.
I would suggest that you just grab a copy of the book and go have a look for yourself!!
Got the guidebook, read it pretty much cover to cover. Fantastic. Made a plan, then headed up to check out the area around Big Sleep. A couple of notes for folks like us who have never been to Shuteye and are headed up there with a freshly minted copy of the new Grahm Doe guide in their sweaty little hands:
1. The guidebook shows hundreds of spectacular climbs, beautifully photographed, on spectacular granite. What we saw confirmed that the granite is tremendous and in places, highly featured, and the slab is clean, solid, and very grippy. Keep in mind that the beautiful route on page 27 might be an hour's drive or more from the beautiful route on page 30. Plan to spend some time at every area you go to, since it's going to be more work to get there than you think.
2. The roads in the area are engineered to confuse. Ha! Most roads have three names, which are used interchangeably. The dirt roads are generally poorly signed, and a maze of unnamed roads and motorcycle trails will add to your confusion. For the most part, Google maps will only provide marginal assistance, since for some reason, the roads on Google are not labelled with the "7S02" sort of USFS names that are used in the forest and on quad maps. Go figure. Be sure you know where you're going before you head out. Having someone in your party who really knows how to read a map is a bonus.
3. The approaches are not necessarily trails. Well, there appear to be trails, but you better find them and stay on them if you're not planning to bushwhack. We found some that were well-cairned, and even some wide swaths of well-gardened trail, but the trails were easy to lose and very lightly used. If you're planning to bushwhack (be prepared to even if you're expecting a trail), have a good sense of direction and a map and compass or GPS and know how to use them. Unless you're out on open slab, don't expect to be able to see more than a couple of hundred feet in the forest. You could pretty easily get lost out here. Allow a lot of time to find your way to and from the climbs.
What a place! Beautiful quiet forests. Spectacular rock. Even where the rock is covered with lichen, it's super positive to climb on. This place is so spread out and hard to navigate (relative to more popular areas) that I'd say there's little risk of over-use. We spent a three day weekend sampling the slab and featured face climbing near Big Sleep, and the swimming holes that pepper the stream above Rock Creek campground.