Shute-Mills Route 

Fun route, first bolt a bit high but otherwise well protected. Easier if you work your way up a gully to the right and approach the first bolt from that side. Also easier if you go left instead of straight over the bulge near the top. Probably 5.8 if you do these things, 5.9 if you stay on the line of the bolts. Shared anchor with New Tradition 5.7 to the left.

For me the crux is getting to the first bolt, which I approach from the left, and I think it's solid 5.9. A small cam can be placed before the first bolt, but it takes out a good handhold. The bulge at the top is much easier, at least for me, feeling no harder than 5.7.

I agree w/ Floyd - crux is down low - below 1st bolt and is closer to 5.9 than 5.8.

The set of rusty 1/4" rappel chains and other set of bolts with 1960s era Leeper hangers have been replaced with stainless Fixe hardware.

Direct start is 5.9 and heads up if you aren't solid at the grade. Well protected climb, great beginner lead. Rap from the top to avoid unnecessary wear and tear on the rope.

tope rope the independent line to the right. holds almost dissapear but not quite. :)