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BETA PHOTO: the climb as seen from below, with the line roughl...
The first climb you see as you arrive at the Far Side, and a great warm-up. Lots of good pockes on a vertical boulder reaching about 50' feet up. Getting over the bulge near the top is the crux.
One of the few well-protected climbs in the Far Side. 5 bolts to a 3 bolt anchor shared with the other climbs on the rock.
BETA PHOTO: Beta photo for Shute-Mills Route
|Comments on Shute-Mills Route
Feb 13, 2006
Fun route, first bolt a bit high but otherwise well protected. Easier if you work your way up a gully to the right and approach the first bolt from that side. Also easier if you go left instead of straight over the bulge near the top. Probably 5.8 if you do these things, 5.9 if you stay on the line of the bolts. Shared anchor with New Tradition 5.7 to the left.
|By Floyd Hayes|
Oct 27, 2008
For me the crux is getting to the first bolt, which I approach from the left, and I think it's solid 5.9. A small cam can be placed before the first bolt, but it takes out a good handhold. The bulge at the top is much easier, at least for me, feeling no harder than 5.7.
|By Cam Parry|
From: Calistoga, CA
May 26, 2009
I agree w/ Floyd - crux is down low - below 1st bolt and is closer to 5.9 than 5.8.
From: Sebastopol, CA
Mar 8, 2010
The set of rusty 1/4" rappel chains and other set of bolts with 1960s era Leeper hangers have been replaced with stainless Fixe hardware.
|By Kyle Townsend|
From: Oakland, CA
Jul 1, 2012
Direct start is 5.9 and heads up if you aren't solid at the grade. Well protected climb, great beginner lead. Rap from the top to avoid unnecessary wear and tear on the rope.
Sep 4, 2012
tope rope the independent line to the right. holds almost dissapear but not quite. :)