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 ADVANCED
The Far Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
18NY (aka The Chickens are Breastless) T,S 
At Last S 
Atlas S 
Atlas Shrugged S 
Baby Atlas (aka The Chickens are Restless) S 
Better Eat Your Wheaties T,S 
Boneless Chicken Ranch T 
Bushy Crack T 
Cereal Killer S 
Chief, The S,TR 
Continental Drift Whiplash T 
Curse of Madame C S 
Death to the right T 
Far S 
Far Out S 
Far Side Chimney T 
Farther S 
Farthing, The T 
Feelin' Your Oats T 
Gorilla Finishing School S 
Hummingbird Spire, N. Face T 
Initiation Rite T 
Jardinero S 
Koka T 
Kola S 
Left Behind T 
Lichen It T 
Mystery Hole S,TR 
Near Side Chimney T 
New Tradition S,TR 
Night of the Crash Test Dummies S 
Old Spice T 
Old Tradition T 
Pile, The T 
Planet of the Grapes 5.6 T 
Rite of Passage T 
Saviour Heart T,S 
Scorpion's Chair S 
Separation Anxiety S,TR 
Seymour Frishberg T 
Shute-Mills Route S 
Something Good S,TR 
Spellcaster S 
Sport Roof Left S 
Sport Roof Right S 
Step To The Left T,S 
Synchronicity S 
Tradfest T 
Two-Bolt Slab T,S 
War Party S,TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Shute-Mills Route 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Forrest Shute and Wade Mills
Page Views: 4,025
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Apr 12, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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BETA PHOTO: the climb as seen from below, with the line roughl...

Description 

The first climb you see as you arrive at the Far Side, and a great warm-up. Lots of good pockes on a vertical boulder reaching about 50' feet up. Getting over the bulge near the top is the crux.

Protection 

One of the few well-protected climbs in the Far Side. 5 bolts to a 3 bolt anchor shared with the other climbs on the rock.


Photos of Shute-Mills Route Slideshow Add Photo
Beta photo for Shute-Mills Route
BETA PHOTO: Beta photo for Shute-Mills Route
Had a blast up in the July heat today. Doing some ...
Had a blast up in the July heat today. Doing some ...

Comments on Shute-Mills Route Add Comment
Show which comments
By harmonydoc
Feb 13, 2006
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun route, first bolt a bit high but otherwise well protected. Easier if you work your way up a gully to the right and approach the first bolt from that side. Also easier if you go left instead of straight over the bulge near the top. Probably 5.8 if you do these things, 5.9 if you stay on the line of the bolts. Shared anchor with New Tradition 5.7 to the left.
By Floyd Hayes
Oct 27, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

For me the crux is getting to the first bolt, which I approach from the left, and I think it's solid 5.9. A small cam can be placed before the first bolt, but it takes out a good handhold. The bulge at the top is much easier, at least for me, feeling no harder than 5.7.
By Cam Parry
From: Calistoga, CA
May 26, 2009

I agree w/ Floyd - crux is down low - below 1st bolt and is closer to 5.9 than 5.8.
By Dodrill
From: Sebastopol, CA
Mar 8, 2010

The set of rusty 1/4" rappel chains and other set of bolts with 1960s era Leeper hangers have been replaced with stainless Fixe hardware.
By Kyle Townsend
From: Oakland, CA
Jul 1, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Direct start is 5.9 and heads up if you aren't solid at the grade. Well protected climb, great beginner lead. Rap from the top to avoid unnecessary wear and tear on the rope.
By splitclimber
Sep 4, 2012

top rope the independent line to the right. holds almost dissapear but not quite. :)
By Benjamin Chodoroff
From: Detroit, MI
Jul 7, 2014

the two new Fixe anchors are loose, but there are backup options aplenty.