Shrinking Ball Disease
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The crux of this one hits right off the ground and it’s also the section that protects the poorest. The first satisfying placement is about 5 feet below the bolt which itself is not really in the best location as a bomber placement can be found 8 inches above it (but of course I clipped it). Once you clip the bolt, the climbing eases (& seriousness decreases) to typical Sunshine Wall crack climbing (i.e. stemming). Belay off the bolted anchors atop the sport route to the right.
Thin crack immediately to the right of Party In Your Pants. There’s a lone bolt 20-25 feet up. Maybe the name implies this already but it felt more heads-up than the Spinning Mars (11b) crack immediately left of Party…
Micro cams but really not that many since even the tiniest ones are too large for the crack below the bolt. A mid-sized (#3 or 4) HB offset or equivalent. Otherwise gear to 2 inches with an optional #3 for the easy exit hand crack. Lowe Balls would probably work but I did not bring any.
|Comments on Shrinking Ball Disease
From: Seattle, WA
Sep 23, 2013
There is an unfinished (or pulled) bolt hole near the sporty start of this climb. My guess is that someone decided that it should either be toproped from the sport climb next to it, or led by people who like unprotected balance-y stems with groundfall potential.
|By Ethan Henderson|
From: Silverdale, WA
Oct 7, 2013
Start protects decently with a 1 and 2 loweball i believe