Type: Trad, TR, 135 ft (41 m)
FA: Jay Ladin & Bobbi Bensman, 1983
Page Views: 712 total · 4/month
Shared By: Hendrixson on May 7, 2010
Admins: adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route


3 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

Enjoy contorting your body into awkward positions and squeezing yourself into tight spaces? If so this is the climb for you.

The crux, which comes early and takes good gear, leads to a wider, featured chimney and moderate, less-than-vertical face climbing. The latter portions were runout but mild.

This climb, like most chimney routes, will appeal to a limited audience.

Location Suggest change

The route ascends the prominent west-facing chimney system, spanning New Wave Wall and Ribbit Wall.

Squeezing the Lemmon II lists this route under both walls.

Protection Suggest change

A wide variety of traditional gear. I placed everything from a Black Diamond C3 #000 to C4 #5. Depending on your comfort level you could probably get away with a lot less (and probably squeeze into the chimney a lot easier!). Use long runners to prevent rope drag.

The anchor consists of a single beefy bolt on a mushroom-like feature. This feature can be lassoed for redundancy.

One can walk off or use the anchors of a shorter climb. I used the anchors of Holey Moley. Alternatively one could probably rappel off the anchors of Tsunami for a shorter climb.

Photos

0 Comments