|2,658 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 190 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.8 [details]|
|FA: ||Ron Olsen, Bruno Haché, and Nickie Kelly, 7/26/07|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||Orphaned on Sep 20, 2007|
Showtime climbs the left side of the prominent pinnacle on the north face of Tonnere Tower. It is a great pitch, with face, cracks and exposed arete climbing on solid rock. Excellent position, exposure, and a treat for the tourists at Boulder Falls. Don't miss this pitch on your visit to The Garden!
P1: Start by climbing Fine Fir, Before The Deluge, or Crackdown to their common anchor, on a pedestal about 65' up.
P2: (Showtime): Start up the gully right of the anchor, place a green Camalot, and move right onto the wall. Climb up to a bulge, clip a bolt, and climb up and right onto the arete. Climb hand cracks to an alcove.
From here, the best climbing line stays to the left as much as possible. Other variations can be done more to the right.
Step left and climb a crux hand crack (8+) to an intermediate 2-bolt rap anchor at 60'. The hand crack can be bypassed by climbing the wide slot to the right. Clip the anchor, but do not stop here to belay. Instead, continue up to a stance. Step left and climb a hand crack onto the arete. (You could also climb wide cracks to the right, but the hand crack is more fun). Continue up the arete to to the top of the pinnacle and a two-bolt anchor. 5.8+, 125'.
Wave at the tourists at Boulder Falls who were entertained by your ascent!
Descent: Rappel 95' down to the anchor on The B Boys, then rappel 100' down to a gully above the start of Local Hero. Do an easy 20' downclimb to the bottom of the gully. Take a path to the left to get back to The Garden.
You can also rappel the route in 3 rappels, using the intermediate anchor halfway up the second pitch.
The Garden area. Showtime climbs the left side of the pinnacle on the north face.
P2: 1 bolt and gear to a #2 Camalot. Doubles from red Alien to #2 Camalot are useful. 2-bolt anchor at the top. 2-bolt intermediate rap station midway on the pitch.
From: Bear Creek, CO
May 15, 2008
We didn't realize about the intermediate rap anchor when we descended this beauty of a climb in the dark.... a 70 meter rope will get you down the the next anchor though... Too bad we only had a 60, and were forced to leave some gear on the tree above the first belay station. Solid 5.8 with some interesting crack climbing. Interesting position once you pull though the crux. This climb is better done when it is still light out.
|By Chris Zeller|
From: Boulder, CO
May 3, 2012
By rapping straight towards the creek rather than re-tracing the route to the intermediate anchor, you can do 2 60m raps rather than 3. At the second rap, there are two anchors. Either works for setting the second rappel. The anchors here are all really bomber.