If you are ready for a battle, this climb is totally sick! Showcase is an overhanging thin hands crack that gets wider as it goes up. Starting the route is a tricky stem move. Once established in the stem you can place a nice .5 (or so) cam, and start cranking. The rock is extremely sharp, and there aren't many good rests. It's really sustained, but, I guess I'd say that the crux was at about half-way, going through a short pod. When it widens up at the top, you can either place wide gear, or put smaller stuff in the back of the crack. Your call, but, I was glad to have a couple wide pieces (4, & 4.5 cams) for the upper section... The crack is kinda short (40 or 45 feet?), but will put up a good fight! It helps to keep your eyes open for features that will help you stem, and smear... Walk off back, then left. The climb wouldn't suit a TR very well since the crack can easily swallow a rope.
Showcase is located on the Little Butt near Asshole Rocks. It is adjacent to the routes on the Da Butts main crag. If you get to the summit of Da Butts, you will see this obvious feature below you and uphill from the start of the route Roll Dem Bones (see description of Roll Dem Bones, and Cardiac Crack for my attempt at providing approach beta). It is on a huge boulder split in half by a dihedral. Scramble, and bushwack your way to the base, and climb the dihedral. There's also an insane looking A4 seam to the right of this crack that looks like it would have some scary hook moves. Have fun!
Hubbel's guidebook says pro to 5", extra 3-4". You don't really need a #5 cam, but could use some wide gear on the second half of the pitch. A full rack of cams up to about #4, or #4.5, with maybe an extra #0.75, or #1 cam will sew this up.
|By Darren Mabe|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 26, 2004
FA: Dave Bell.
|By Allen Hill|
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Mar 14, 2010
I thought I had mentioned the aid line to the right of this, guess not. It'll go free. Dave rated it A4, but I suspect it'll protect ok with small cams. There is a bolt near the top.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Mar 12, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
This is not even close to 5.11 unless your hands are like bear paws, and even then, I doubt it. I'm giving it 1 star to reflect the 1/4 pitch worth of 4-star climbing. It's just too short to call it much more.