The more moderate of Tettegouche's two sea cliff crags, Shovel is more popular with boy scout troops, church groups and top ropers. This notwithstanding, more than a handfull of full value classics are to be found here. Must-dos include Dance of the Sugarplum Fairies, Gold Plated, Rosses Crack and others.
This spot is popular with tourists as well and they will likely watch you climb and ask you questions.
You are encouraged to stay on the trails and use the new statepark placed anchors (the biggest bolt hangers ever!). Be kind to the trees as well...
Park at the statepark rest stop and hike northeast following the signs.
Lower down to a small ledge just before you are completely surrounded by the namesake bright yellow lichen. Climb up somewhat broken and dirty overhung rock to the top, climbing two roofs in route. A fun route well worth doing but the dirtiness and slightly chossy nature of the rock detracts from the climb a bit in my opinion....[more]Browse More Classics in MN
This crag was opened out by Paul Ross and assistants while working for Minn Outward Bound School about 1976/7 .At that time here was not even a trail out to the cliff . There was a massive amount of loose rock on most of the climbs when first ascented.At this time about 12 climbs were first ascended up to 5.10, some for the use of students and some for their own personal fun.
You are right and I apologise for being a stickler for semantics. And please don't get me wrong, I'm sure it is especially lovely, committing, and fun---I'd be honored to climb there someday as I truly LOVE cliffs by water. But the water on the ocean sometimes has big waves, and I mean big ones, and the air and the roar create a briny aroma which permeates everything...
I was up at Shovel Point this past weekend, and while having some fun on Soldier of God we noticed some peregrine falcons switching spots on a nest just around the corner from us. When I spoke to park staff about it, she said that they aren't sure how many nesting pairs there are on Shovel Point this year and that they were getting ready to start putting up definitive route closure signs soon. I would guess that it is possible that Out on a Limb through Soldier of God will be closed through nesting season.
Define big, eh? Well, whilst new routing on sea cliffs on The Redwood Coast years ago (on the cliff itself proper, not "standing on the shore," my belayer was inundated by a rogue wave which rolled in from the Far East, all the way across the North Pacific Ocean, knocked him almost unconscious & off his stance. Had he not been anchored, I would have been pulled from the tenuous moves I was making.
So sorry, as fantastic as your area is, and it does look wonderful, it is still a LAKE cliff. Perhaps with "nailing and bolting ... not allowed," no wonder you are a bit testy about your especially beautiful place.
That would be deplorable! TR-ing a new line from the rim and not being able to bolt it for a some real adrenaline on the sharp end...or scoping an amazing traverse just above those glorious wave-lets, and not even be able to pound a KB or bolt...unless you covertly did it and then did not document it, except via word of mouth...that would be pleasant...
Oh, and having done many new routes on actual sea cliffs, I think I know what true sea cliff climbing is all about, thank you. ;-D
Remember this isn't a surfing web site so your points are moot as far as I am concerned. Do rogue waves inspire you to climb better? Probably not I am guessing. I am also going to guess that the scenery, location, ambience, exposure and most of all the quality of rock are what matters most and this place looks like it has all of that and then some.
If they want to call it a sea cliff because it resembles one pretty much to the T then why not just let them?
I understand the no-chalk policy. However, is it acceptable to use chalkless chalk or organic chalk? I'm about to climb up at Tettegouche for the first time, and I just want to make sure that I don't upset anybody, hurt the rock, or upset the peregrines and others in the local habitat (and I don't really want to start/continue the chalk vs no chalk debate, I'm just asking a practical question).
Any thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!