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Feb 8, 2013
Anyone really working their shoulder strength, if so what exercises have you tried? So far I've tried max weighted pullups= 2-3 reps for 4-6 sets with 10 minutes rest in between (using jugs on the metolius simulator). I've also been campusing on jugs with added weight, focusing on really big moves.

Side note, since becoming a very dynamic climber I've realized deep lockoffs have become very hard for me and my shoulder strength has gone down about 20 pounds. Anyone else have a similar experience with this?

Anyone have results with negatives or other exercises? Comments on frenchies and their use? It seems like more of the endurance side of strength to me.
josh villeneuve
From Enfield, CT
Joined Oct 4, 2010
206 points
Feb 8, 2013
Why shoulders? That seems very specific and reminds me of something a weightlifter would come up with. Have you identified some specific weakness in your climbing and attributed that to weak shoulders? I could be wrong but pull-ups are going to mostly work your lats and rear delts. The rear delts are only 1/3 of your shoulder. JJNS
Joined Sep 30, 2008
505 points
Feb 8, 2013
Shoulders because I've been having problems with hard deep lockoffs and huge powerful moves. Big dynos and steep cave problems where you need to be static and deliberate. josh villeneuve
From Enfield, CT
Joined Oct 4, 2010
206 points
Feb 8, 2013
Frenchies on the hangboard will definitely help your lock-off power. Also, while at the gym bouldering make each move overly deliberate and static, locking off on each hold for a few moments before moving to the next. This will work best on moderate and/or easy problems.

I may be misunderstanding you, but huge moves and big dynos usually denote dynamic movement, not static. If you are training for huge moves and big dynos on overhanging problems static training is probably not the best excercises to make the gains you're looking for.
Mark Lewis
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Joined Mar 15, 2012
603 points
Feb 8, 2013
great barrington
I second Mark Lewis's post. Static routines help with strengthening your shoulders bowshaaa
Joined Jan 12, 2013
26 points
Feb 8, 2013
JasonJNSmith wrote:
The rear delts are only 1/3 of your shoulder.


Actually...there are at least 15 muscles we'd call "shoulder muscles". The anterior, posterior, medial deltoids are only 3 of those.

Which leads to my point: The shoulder is a very complicated joint with a huge range of motion. Talking about "shoulder strength" is so generic as to be virtually meaningless. If you want useful input, I think you need to be more specific about the type of moves you are trying to get stronger on, or the specific muscles you are trying to work/strengthen.
Will S
From Joshua Tree
Joined Nov 15, 2006
1,275 points


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