Should I Stay Or Should I Go?
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BETA PHOTO: Beta
10' of easy climbing quickly leads to the most sustained and difficult route on the dome so far. The crux is moving over the bulge above the cave on one finger crimps and lasts several moves until you finally reach the top-out jugs. Mostly crimping on small edges with a pocket or two.
Climbs the left side of the east face of The Gimme Some Dome. Start directly below the right edge of the cave 2/3 of the way up the face. As you climb you want to be climbing in or just right of the scars of 3' loose flakes that were trundled off the face.
Top rope this route using the middle set of chain anchors. Bring your shortest quickdraw because 5' below and to the right (when looking off the top of the cliff) of the chain anchors there is a single bolt to re-direct the rope to above this route. As you rappel down clip the quickdraw into this bolt and then clip into the quickdraw with either just the tie-in side of the rope or both sides of the rope. Unclip the rope as you climb past it to the chain or just lower once you reach the re-direct bolt as the climbing above it is very low angle. This re-direct bolt is marked in the beta pic.
From: Tucson, Arizona
Oct 1, 2011
I have cleaned a lot (90%-95%) of the loose rock off the wall. Most of the rock on the routes is solid and there are no "death blocks/flakes) left but do have your belayer stand off to the side while belaying to avoid being hit by falling rocks. If its loose and you can get it off please do. If you get off route you may run into a little more as I rap-cleaned everything I could reach. With just a little traffic this wall will clean up VERY nicely and give the climbing community a climbing option on the west side of town that is close and has a very short and easy approach.
Nov 21, 2011
Thanks for thinking of us westsiders, Nick et al. Great routes if you can't get to the mountain on a regular basis. I'll reiterate the warning about the teddy bear cholla...went out with some friends and me and the dog got pin-cushioned for my carelessness (sorry Pancho!).