Scramble up easy 4th class and belay from atop this ledge. Ascend the crack, placing 1-3 inch cams in sketchy sandstone. Beware, the roof overhead is unstable bombs, waiting to drop. Move right around this, into a solid crack and rest on a huge ledge. Keep moving up, placing gear anytime solid rock permits. The top move is the crux. Move to the opening to the left and grovel on slopers until you can top out.
Approach: Leave the parking lot and walk down the road 200 feet. Scratch and crawl your way up a land slide to reach the base of the rock.
To get down, walk off back to the parking lot.
Standard rack. I belayed from above using slung rock and roots as anchors.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up the crack from the belay ledge. Follow...
Robbie pulling through the high crux
White circles show annoying approach. The line in...
Apr 22, 2007
As you can see in the photos, this route is right along the road. I assume someone has climbed it before because when it was good, it was good and its so close with so many great climbers in the area.
However, I am claiming FA because 1) I'm selfish, 2) the approach easiest approach was a slippery slope with no other tracks, and 3) there were a lot of loose rocks/holds on this route.
Anybody recognize this rock?
Dec 10, 2007
I am claiming this as my own. It will probably never be repeated but it's my first FA. Changing name to match our favorite SB'07 beer activity.