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YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Ryan Kane, March 2007
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,458
Submitted By: Kaner on Apr 22, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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The parking lot from the top

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


Scramble up easy 4th class and belay from atop this ledge. Ascend the crack, placing 1-3 inch cams in sketchy sandstone. Beware, the roof overhead is unstable bombs, waiting to drop. Move right around this, into a solid crack and rest on a huge ledge. Keep moving up, placing gear anytime solid rock permits. The top move is the crux. Move to the opening to the left and grovel on slopers until you can top out.


Approach: Leave the parking lot and walk down the road 200 feet. Scratch and crawl your way up a land slide to reach the base of the rock.

To get down, walk off back to the parking lot.


Standard rack. I belayed from above using slung rock and roots as anchors.

Photos of Shotgun Slideshow Add Photo
Looking up the crack from the belay ledge.  Follow...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up the crack from the belay ledge. Follow...
Robbie pulling through the high crux
Robbie pulling through the high crux
White circles show annoying approach.  The line in...
White circles show annoying approach. The line in...

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By Kaner
From: Eagle
Apr 22, 2007

As you can see in the photos, this route is right along the road. I assume someone has climbed it before because when it was good, it was good and its so close with so many great climbers in the area.
However, I am claiming FA because 1) I'm selfish, 2) the approach easiest approach was a slippery slope with no other tracks, and 3) there were a lot of loose rocks/holds on this route.

Anybody recognize this rock?
By Kaner
From: Eagle
Dec 10, 2007

I am claiming this as my own. It will probably never be repeated but it's my first FA. Changing name to match our favorite SB'07 beer activity.
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