Shotgun 5.12
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12b [details] |
| FA: | Darren Singer, Dick Cilley |
| Season: | Spring, Summer, Fall |
| Submitted By: | JJ Schlick on Aug 12, 2006 |
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Placing gear low on the route. Photo by Bennett B...
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Description This route is to the right of On The Edge. Climb up a short, vertical band to a gravelly ledge. The route follows the seam/finger crack with some tight, steep moves down low, severe stemming and thin jamming in the middle, and nice long moves with positive fingers at the top. Kind of a tall man route due to the stemming moves in the middle, maybe not? Though a bit on the short side, this pitch really packs it in.
Location Just to the right of On The Edge
Protection Wires and small cams. Grey-yellow Metolius. The gear is all bomber.
By chuck claude From: Flagstaff, Az Nov 10, 2009
| but for the old-timers: who did the first lead? |
By Darren Singer From: Portland, OR May 7, 2010
| To the best of my knowledge, I pulled through on the first lead of this route sometime around '92 - my journal is buried in a box somewhere. Prior to this, it was a Dick Cilley TR that had fallen into obscurity. Of course we rehearsed this a bit on TR ourselves before taking to lead it. I remember working out the moves on TR with Jim Waugh, discussing whether it would be safe to lead. Next to Jane Fonda Workout, one of the most gymnastic lines I remember from the Forks. If somebody else has info on an earlier lead, I'd like to hear about it. |
By chuck claude From: Flagstaff, Az May 30, 2010
| You led Janed Fonda's and was wondering if Shotgun would be a safe lead. Sounds sort of backwards. |
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