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Shotgun 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Darren Singer, Dick Cilley
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 1,860
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Aug 12, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Placing gear low on the route. Photo by Bennett B...

Description 

Shotgun has some of the best, technical 5.12 finger jamming at the Forks and this double barrel line is loaded with with good gear. Better keep your eye on the target, and your trigger finger at the ready for this one.

This route is to the right of On The Edge. Climb up a short, vertical band to a gravelly ledge. The route follows the seam/finger crack with some tight, steep moves down low, severe stemming and thin jamming in the middle, and nice long moves with positive fingers at the top. Kind of a tall man route due to the stemming moves in the middle, maybe not?

Though a bit on the short side, this pitch really packs it in. Its also a good, solid 5.12 to save for an onsight at the grade because the gear is rather straight forward, and there are not a whole lot of straight forward routes around at that grade.


Location 

Just to the right of On The Edge


Protection 

Wires and small cams. Grey-yellow Metolius. The gear is all bomber.



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By chuck claude
From: Flagstaff, Az
Nov 10, 2009

but for the old-timers: who did the first lead?

By Darren Singer
From: Portland, OR
May 7, 2010

To the best of my knowledge, I pulled through on the first lead of this route sometime around '92 - my journal is buried in a box somewhere. Prior to this, it was a Dick Cilley TR that had fallen into obscurity. Of course we rehearsed this a bit on TR ourselves before taking to lead it. I remember working out the moves on TR with Jim Waugh, discussing whether it would be safe to lead. Next to Jane Fonda Workout, one of the most gymnastic lines I remember from the Forks. If somebody else has info on an earlier lead, I'd like to hear about it.

By chuck claude
From: Flagstaff, Az
May 30, 2010

You led Janed Fonda's and was wondering if Shotgun would be a safe lead. Sounds sort of backwards.