Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Utah Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Airtime 
Apex 
Apex Right 
I Love My Wife But She Doesn't Climb 
In The Pink 
Lawyers, Guns, and Money 
Right of the Roof 
Shotgun 
Shotgun (Variation) 
unknown (right most crack in the roof) 
Unknown (TR) 
Unnamed 
Unnamed Dihedral 
Utah Crack 

Shotgun (Variation) 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 322
Submitted By: wasatch-mtn-man on Oct 21, 2010
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Cresting the overhang on Shotgun (Variation).

Description 

This is essentially Shotgun but with the variation of pulling the roof further down instead of continuing up into the apex of the roof before pulling out. Although similar to Shotgun, we thought it was fun enough to include it as a separate route.

Just after you exit the splitter 'lighting bolt' crack you will see two cracks in the roof that angle up and to climber's left. Hold your breath and work these two overhanging cracks until you get on the upper face. Easy ascent from there. Committing and FUN!


Protection 

As per Shotgun - plus you can clip a piece of history and clip the piton in the higher of the two cracks. Can be protected well with a #2 Camalot - maybe even a #3.



Comments on Shotgun (Variation) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Hendo
From: Denver, CO
Jun 29, 2013

This is a burly roof if I've ever climbed one! Pretty fun trad lead. There is a piton you can clip right under the roof, but on lead, it might be best not to clip it (I did...). The rope drag is very much decreased if you don't, and while leading, the rope doesn't get in your way. You've just got to be 100% confident in your #2 placement in the roof. That's the catch. My #2 caught two falls. So it is a bomber placement!