This little crag sits on a parcel of SITLA land next to the Shivwits Indian Reservation. The climbs are on the two cliff bands framing the Santa Clara river. There are several hours worth of fine (albeit short) bolted routes, together with a few trad lines that can be protected via cracks. Most routes require you to set up an equalized sling anchor draped over the top edge using the two easily accessible anchor bolts before climbing the route. The short length of the routes and ease of putting up a top rope (as long as you remember your sliding X sling and carabiners) make this a good area for introducing novice climbers to the sport.
On the cliff band closest to the road and parking area (referred to as the "near" cliff band in route descriptions) routes tend to be clustered in two areas. There is a northern cluster of routes (to the far left on the cliff band visible in the photo) and a southern cluster of routes (approximate middle of cliff band visible in the photo). There are also a few scattered routes on the far southern end of the cliff (not visible in the photo). Gaining access to the cliff band across the river (the "far" cliff band in route descriptions) requires wading the river and negotiating the steep boulder field.
The rock is a conglomerate, can be flaky, and most routes require quite a bit of cleaning. It will take some time before all the loose parts have been completely worked away. Holds are often thin and sharp. The climbing style for the most part is technical and delicate rather than steep and powerful.
Easy access to the area tends to draw gun shooting and garbage dumping types. Until recently large numbers of spent shotgun shells littered the area, hence the name. It is slowly being cleaned up and has the potential to turn into a pleasant spot next to a scenic stretch of river.
From the Bluff St/Sunset Blvd intersection in St. George drive west on Sunset Blvd (turns into old Hwy 91) for 7.6 miles. At the right turn sign for Kayenta make a left turn instead and park at the side of the road next to a fenced area and gate. There is a SITLA no-trespass sign posted at the gate. (The fence, gate and sign are recent additions due to damage caused by off-road vehicles, dumping, and people shooting guns that can potentially start fires. Climbers will be allowed to use the area as long as we do not contribute to these problems.) Enter the area through the walk-in gate and hike a short distance (about 5 mins) to the cliffs framing the river.
40 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',18],['1 Star',17],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Shotgun Alley
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Shotgun Alley:
Ignoramus 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Wait for It 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Fancy Pants 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Ghost Goop 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Featured Route For Shotgun Alley
Ghost Goop 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a UT
: Saint George
: Shotgun Alley
Starts out on crimpy shotgun style climbing in the high 5.10 - low 5.11 range. then hits a roof with a strong dyno move and some balance technique to get that 4th clip. Crux is pulling the roof or clipping the 4th. The route(4th bolt placement) is designed to take you left on the face and away from the arete, climbing it this way puts it in the 11+/12- range. There is an alternative staying on the arete with good holds around the right side of the arete. Much easier(11 b/c) but still fun. gr...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
News and Events For Shotgun Alley
BETA PHOTO: Northernmost (part of the N cluster) routes and th...
BETA PHOTO: A panoramic shot of the cliff band across the rive...
BETA PHOTO: The S cluster of climbs on the near cliff band.
BETA PHOTO: The N cluster of climbs on the near cliff band.
Winter at Shotgun Alley
Jul 18, 2010
Aren't there a bunch of nice little pictographs spread around these cliffs?
|By Marius vanderMerwe|
From: Saint George, UT
Jul 18, 2010
The area with all the cool petroglyphs is not far from here (maybe 1-2 miles away) and is definitely worth a visit too.
|By Dan L|
From: Moab, UT
Dec 12, 2010
Ha Ha since when did Biology teachers climb?
|By Preston Marsh|
Jul 22, 2011
Started a new route in shotgun. Its to the right of silly putty on the face. Only put in one bolt on the route but the top to bolts are in and glued so no theft is possible. (very sad to come to this) Worked best top rope with a sling and there was no rope drag. I will finish it next time i am back in town.
|By Tyler Slack|
From: Tooele, Utah
Aug 3, 2011
Nate and I went to climb in this area today and ran into some new fences and No Trespassing signs put up by SITLA. I called Kim Christy at the Salt Lake office who referred me to Kyle Paisley in the Southern Utah office so we could get word about future climbing in this area.
Kyle explained that they're more concerned about motorized vehicles and dumping in the area. He said that there have been 5 brush fires this year alone and they felt that they needed to do something about it.
We got permission to walk in and climb today and I hope that in the future we can drive in as long as we're not rednecks. I asked permission to post an update on this website and he said that would be fine, so I'm spreading the word. Climbing is ok despite the No Trespassing signs, but be advised...your redneck activities will be prosecuted. ;)
|By shelby m|
Oct 19, 2011
Climbed "wait for it" and "awesome" today. First time out there. Neat area and easy access, looking forward to going back soon. Thanks again for all the bolted routes. Very delicate routes that require thin holds but everything we climbed was solid.
Any info on the routes on the west side of river?
|By Marius vanderMerwe|
From: Saint George, UT
Oct 21, 2011
The routes west of the river are a bit of a pain to get to since you have to wade the river and then negotiate the talus slope. They also tend to be steeper, harder, and more painful on the fingers.
From: saint george area
Jul 29, 2012
Bouldering and trad climbing a few minutes east ad well
|By Jared R|
Sep 11, 2013
Went to scope these out today and it was raining the entire time so we never got to climb. The Rock is super solid and is almost identical to that of the Gunks in New York. It seems to be hard enough to climb when wet, as we were pulling on lots of holds (not any on existing routes) and there was no breakage. It has been raining in the St. George area for a solid week now so if they were able to be broken when wet they would have. Like I said, this rock type looks and feels identical to that at the Gunks in New York. I can't wait to actually climb some of the routes. There is so much potential for more great routes in this area.
From: Rexburg, Idaho
5 days ago
Here from Idaho visiting family. This is a great area to climb. Lots of routes at various difficulties. I love that you can lead or top rope the majority of these climbs. Just bring slings because of the the top anchors are bolts on the top face, not the climbing face.