Start on a ledge, just to the right of a black streak (containing Back in Black and below a lighter streak that is immediately right of the black streak. Climb to the third bolt and decide how best to surmount the bulge. There is some looser, crumblier rock to the left of the bulge.
After the bulge follow positive and not-so-positive edges through a steeper section to a small roof (the last bolt is on the edge). After the little roof it is easier climbing to the anchors.
This was originally a four-bolt Aaron Wilkenson project that lay fallow for six or seven years.
The second pitch of Send For The Man (5.10a) can be started from the top of this route, if desired.
Immediately right of the two black streaks on the east wall of the gully.
7 bolts, hangers-and-rings anchors (shared with Send For The Man to the right).
Rope drag is an issue if toproping. Bring something to extend the anchors.
|By Tristan Higbee|
Apr 18, 2008
The lower section in the white stuff is really crumbly. Just about everything I touched started to crumble. I was able to onsight Back in Black to the left but fell on this puppy. The bulge pumped me out.
|By Kenny Clark|
From: State College, PA
Nov 7, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
This route seemed a little dirty at first, but after climbing a few more routes in this area made this seem pretty clean. A little more traffic would help clean this up and make it more fun. There are really only small pebbles left to clean off this route. It was fun with some interesting moves. Get on it, and help clean it a little bit, but be nice to your belayer.