You could climb the entire East Face, OR if you want the best for less, climb the Shortcut. This is a great easy climb on slightly atypical Flatiron Rock: you get a nice crack! Continue to hike West, past the base of Seal Rock on the right (north) side. (go up a level for those directions) to where all the crazies will be starting Archeopteryx and Sea of Joy. When you see the sheer North Face, take a look up as you will rap down this wall, and then turn left (east) onto some boulders and set up a belay before you scramble up the north side of the East Face at its obvious weakness.Once on the East Face, head up a few feet on the obvious ledge and set a belay there. The belayer will appreciate being on the face instead of on the boulders by your packs, and rope drag will be less. P2: continue up the ledge to the obvious 100 ft. finger crack (4). Set a belay on a nice ledge which also sports a fixed pin. P3: continue up and jump past a break in the rock to the summit. The pro is sparse now as the crack is gone, but the "difficulty" eases. Ah.. the view. P4: Downclimb to the break (pls. do this roped, especially beginners!) and find the rap station on the north side of the East Face. Tie your 50m (Rossiter recomends 60m, but I've been fine with 50's) together and have a great rap!
Typical Flatiron Rack. 2 60m ropes are recommended, but I've done the rap with 2 50s and been ok. You should find the rap station with slings and rap rings, but if early in the season, use caution.
"Downclimb to the break" -- James at the rap stati...
|By Leo Paik|
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 12, 2002
This is also a decent downclimb for those who don't like the rappel. Makes for a nice 7 pitch adventure up the E face and down Shortcut. There are many better East Face slab routes in the Flatirons, however.
|By David Neckels|
Mar 28, 2002
Ahggg!! Should find the route with slings and rings?? I will never ever never depend on slings that I find. $2 for 3 feet of sling, $2 for a rap ring. $4 == I'm alive. Ok, guess I will....
Don't mean to be disagreeable, just would hate to see someone come along that didn't know better learn to trust other people's slings from this :)
|By Tonya Clement|
From: Boulder, CO
May 28, 2003
My partner and I strung the first two pitches together and simul-climbed on two 60m ropes. The rope drag was a bit too much for me, probably due to the low pitch of the climb. It was nice to do it here as these two pitches were relatively easy and took good gear. The lines were not obvious to me so I assume anything goes and the entire face can be climbed. We chose not to simul-climb the crack and set a belay at the neck. The crack was the most interesting and fun part of the climb. Perhaps, others would say the rappel is the best part of this climb. The slings on the rap were in great shape as of today 5.28.03.
|By James Garnett|
From: Bellingham, WA
Sep 14, 2003
Tonya, if I'm not mistaken, there's a loose block right about at your waist in the picture you added below. It's big enough to cause some serious distress to the belayer (who is located directly below); did you see that same block? At any rate, to climbingboulder.com in general: be careful what you yard on while climbing this crack. It's a blast, but there's at least one time bomb a-waitin' here....
|By Gary Schmidt|
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 10, 2006
Short cut is a fun adventure, but it is probably as much a hike as a climb. Once you scramble onto the start ledge about half way up the face (exposed 5.0?) you can easily summit in two pitches with a 60m rope. My partner ran out his rope on the first pitch, and I had only about 75 ft left to the summit. Probably the most exciting part is the rappel which deposits you back conveniently almost where you started the climb! Please inspect all the slings carefully, as the way they are configured, a lot of stress is being placed on the same part of the sling where it passes through the bolt hanger. So even if the sling looks new, it could be worn through at the bolt.(American triangle in hanger bolts? eeks.) On a beautiful spring, this is a nice conditioning hike and overall a fun outing.
|By nick moeckel|
Apr 21, 2006
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
If you're not in the mood to enjoy the hike in, the crack probably isn't going to be reward enough to make you a happy climber. It's quite a long way in for what's essentially one pitch of debatable quality. That said, the view from the summit is fantastic, and it's spacious- just take the time to appreciate the trip in.