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Boulder 1
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Short Story  
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Short Story  

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b Hueco: V-easy Font: 3 PG13

   
Type:  Boulder, 20'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b Hueco: V-easy Font: 3 [details]
FA: ?
Season: all
Page Views: 840
Submitted By: George Hayduke on Oct 2, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO: Albert Ramirez 5-21-11

Description 

Getting past the slopping ledge near the top is the crux.

Location 

Boulder 1 - West Side

Protection 

Pad, Spotter


Photos of Short Story Slideshow Add Photo
Albert Ramirez 5-21-11
BETA PHOTO: Albert Ramirez 5-21-11
Albert Ramirez 5-21-11
BETA PHOTO: Albert Ramirez 5-21-11
Albert Ramirez 5-21-11
BETA PHOTO: Albert Ramirez 5-21-11
Albert Ramirez 5-21-11
BETA PHOTO: Albert Ramirez 5-21-11
Albert Ramirez 5-21-11
BETA PHOTO: Albert Ramirez 5-21-11
Albert Ramirez 5-21-11
BETA PHOTO: Albert Ramirez 5-21-11
Albert Ramirez 5-21-11
Albert Ramirez 5-21-11

Comments on Short Story Add Comment
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By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: Big Bear Lake
Feb 7, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  V-easy 3 PG13

This is a fairly highball problem right of the Boot Flake. Get up awkwardly onto a very sloping ledge then launch upwards on not exactly jugs, the holds are there but require some inventive use, the final little overhang will get your attention...
By dnaiscool
Apr 27, 2015

This was my very first climb at Stoney Point. I was 8 back in 1963, and I was on a TR with my dad belaying, anchored to the bumper of the family car. Topanga Canyon Blvd did not climb up that hill back then; rather is was flat level with the base of the rock, so you pulled into the area and everyone parked near Slant Rock, in the shard under the trees. Everyone would top rope these routes, and the trip leaders would go up first to drive the pins and set the anchors. This was RCS turf, and the Sierra Club scheduled climbing outings at Stoney Point twice monthly...it was a very popular place t learn to climb, so it would seem that only a few things have changed: A TR is never seen, so people actually take rather tall falls, and all the cars are restricted to the road. So, when you look into those curious holes on he top of this stone, try to imagine what it must have been like 50 years ago, when nobody even heard of chalk and set anchors with a big-ass hammer.
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