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Marley Wall
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Short Ribs 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: David Merin,EFR,'11
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 240
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on May 7, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: David Merin just before clipping the anchors on th...
Portions of the approach and cliffs of this area are on private land. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Pretty short route but it is all tufa pinching and laybacking from bottom to top. Starts on deep thin tufas pulls a bulge/roof on some cauliflower stalagtites then continues up another deep thin tufa. Bolts are to the left at the top to keep them in good rock.

It isn't long and the rock isn't as friendly as on some tufa routes but if you like tufa climbing you will probably be glad you did this one.


Location 

The farthest left route on the Marley Wall. Hike to the Marley Wall then walk all the way left until you cannot fo any farther. Single belay bolt is down and right of the first bolt.


Protection 

bolts



Photos of Short Ribs Slideshow Add Photo
These tufas stick out from the wall 6-10 inches.  You can see how thin they are.  Pretty amazing to be climbing on them.  Even where they look like they might break (over the roof) we kicked pounded and pulled on them and they were solid.
BETA PHOTO: These tufas stick out from the wall 6-10 inches. ...
Comments on Short Ribs Add Comment
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By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 12, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Please be careful on this route as the leftmost of the three tufas (just right of the first bolt) sounds very weak. Using this feature does not seem necessary.

While the route is short, the tufa feature is equal in length to those found on Tufa Yard Dash and Tufa-One. The movement is fun. Not a classic but definitely a real treat to climb.