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First things first, both the McLane and Bourdon books give this 11a, so that's what I entered, but I don't see how it can be. After bailing, my partner and I set up a TR and got a little further on moves that that felt closer to 12a, and then still couldn't finish it.
The first two thirds of the climb does have feel like 11a and has some very fun, tricky climbing in a curving crack. The final section, protected by three bolts (not the two listed in the books) and seems to have mandatory 5.12 climbing just to clip them. Fortunately, it's possible to climb Health Hazard to the same anchor and TR, or just recover your gear.
On the left side of Penny Lane, about 20 feet right of the Quarryman area. A crack curves up and left with a piton and leads to blank face where three bolts are visible.
Small cams (#1 camalot and smaller) plus three bolts. Shares a two bolt anchor with several routes, including Health Hazard.
Sep 10, 2009
Peter, it sounds like you got offroute onto Don't Cross Shorty (12b). Short People continues hard left rather than up past the bolts.
|By Peter Spindloe|
From: North Vancouver, BC
Jun 5, 2012
Yes, that's clear to me now. I'll update the description soon, maybe once I go back and finish it properly.