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Penny Lane
Routes Sorted
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Satan's slit 
Clandestine Affair 
Climb & Punishment 
Crime Of The Century 
Health Hazard 
Kahoukers 
Partners In Crime 
Penny Lane 
Popeye and the Raven 
Power Windows 
Quarryman 
Red Rocket 
Short People 
Sunny Days in December 
Ugly American (aka Ugly Anders) 
Up, Up and Away 
Werewolves of London 
Witch Doctor's Apprentice, The 
Yorkshire Gripper 
Unsorted Routes:

Short People 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: P. Croft, D. Fulton, P. Kindree, 1990
Page Views: 241
Submitted By: Peter Spindloe on Aug 29, 2009
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Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot MORE INFO >>>

Description 

First things first, both the McLane and Bourdon books give this 11a, so that's what I entered, but I don't see how it can be. After bailing, my partner and I set up a TR and got a little further on moves that that felt closer to 12a, and then still couldn't finish it.

The first two thirds of the climb does have feel like 11a and has some very fun, tricky climbing in a curving crack. The final section, protected by three bolts (not the two listed in the books) and seems to have mandatory 5.12 climbing just to clip them. Fortunately, it's possible to climb Health Hazard to the same anchor and TR, or just recover your gear.


Location 

On the left side of Penny Lane, about 20 feet right of the Quarryman area. A crack curves up and left with a piton and leads to blank face where three bolts are visible.


Protection 

Small cams (#1 camalot and smaller) plus three bolts. Shares a two bolt anchor with several routes, including Health Hazard.



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By Dru
Sep 10, 2009

Peter, it sounds like you got offroute onto Don't Cross Shorty (12b). Short People continues hard left rather than up past the bolts.

By Peter Spindloe
From: North Vancouver, BC
Jun 5, 2012

Yes, that's clear to me now. I'll update the description soon, maybe once I go back and finish it properly.