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A really nice route that sees little traffic for its quality and grade. Mixed protection and a variety of techniques will show you a good time. Route finding is an issue for many on the crux pitch, but protection is good.
Pitch 1: (5.7) Start by making a strange, mantel move to gain a bolt(an old rusty one if memory serves. Climb slabby moves up to a old fixed pin, belay here from the pin and gear (small cams) behind flakes.
Pitch 2: (5.9) Climb up right to a pin and continue on flakes to a bolt. Head up and right on thin holds to another bolt. Make a long move left to a rail (sloper), stand up and clip the last of your bolts. Climb a killer, right-facing flake to the top. Belay from a tree at the top.
Rap down with 2 ropes.
This could be considered the far, right end of the Slabs Area or the far right of the Echo Roof area. At any rate, it is just left of the dirty gully that separates the slabs from the South Buttress.
It follows the very blunt corner for the most part.
A standard selection of trad gear bolts and pins protect. Belay from gear on pitch 1 and a tree on pitch 2. Rap with 2 ropes.
|By john strand|
From: southern colo
Mar 26, 2009
f/a Ed Webster '81 ?
|By lee hansche|
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 26, 2009
Jun 21, 2009
The original pitch one kind of sucks in my opinion- Add fun and variety by starting up the Avenger finger crack on the right side of the nose.
You can do the whole shebang with a 70m rope, Short Order wanders so doubles are nice.
Jul 26, 2009
After the last pin, on the upper ledge, it is possible to go left (slabby) or right (reachy). Once you gain the friable flakes and clip the first bolt, stepping left/ going straight up is a nice 5.10 variation.
Jul 20, 2010
Nice climb; it is on my favorites list. I agree, use of double ropes is advantages and taller climbers have an easier time with the crux. The lower finger crack on the right side of the lower nose is a fun start, although I often find it a little wet and dirty....."that's what she said".
|By kevin neville|
From: Somerville, MA
Oct 28, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
The start is cool, takes figuring out but then not too hard. Ran it in one pitch, barely barely reaching the rap tree (60m). Definitely grade it as a slab climb, and if you're not happy at 5.8 or 5.8+ slab, you won't be happy.