Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
6. Echo Roof
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aiwass T,S 
Ancient Artifacts T 
Answered Prayers T,S 
Avenger T 
Bit's N Pieces T,S 
Carolina Dreamin' T,S 
Dunn's Diversion T,TR 
Ethereal Crack T 
Future Shock T 
Ladies & Gentlemen T 
Last Tango T,S 
Loose Lips T 
Man's Best Friend S 
Persona T 
Promised Land T 
Relic Hunter T 
Return to Innocence T,S 
Seventh Seal T 
Short Order T 
Sleeping Beauty T 
Unwanted Guests T,S 
Up Rope S 
Wizard Of Oz S 

Short Order 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Ed Webster 81'
Page Views: 1,267
Submitted By: lee hansche on May 31, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

A really nice route that sees little traffic for its quality and grade. Mixed protection and a variety of techniques will show you a good time. Route finding is an issue for many on the crux pitch, but protection is good.

Pitch 1: (5.7) Start by making a strange, mantel move to gain a bolt(an old rusty one if memory serves. Climb slabby moves up to a old fixed pin, belay here from the pin and gear (small cams) behind flakes.

Pitch 2: (5.9) Climb up right to a pin and continue on flakes to a bolt. Head up and right on thin holds to another bolt. Make a long move left to a rail (sloper), stand up and clip the last of your bolts. Climb a killer, right-facing flake to the top. Belay from a tree at the top.

Rap down with 2 ropes.


Location 

This could be considered the far, right end of the Slabs Area or the far right of the Echo Roof area. At any rate, it is just left of the dirty gully that separates the slabs from the South Buttress.

It follows the very blunt corner for the most part.


Protection 

A standard selection of trad gear bolts and pins protect. Belay from gear on pitch 1 and a tree on pitch 2. Rap with 2 ropes.



Comments on Short Order Add Comment
Show which comments
By john strand
From: southern colo
Mar 26, 2009

f/a Ed Webster '81 ?

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 26, 2009

thanks

By Gabe13
Jun 21, 2009

The original pitch one kind of sucks in my opinion- Add fun and variety by starting up the Avenger finger crack on the right side of the nose.

You can do the whole shebang with a 70m rope, Short Order wanders so doubles are nice.

By Gabe13
Jul 26, 2009

After the last pin, on the upper ledge, it is possible to go left (slabby) or right (reachy). Once you gain the friable flakes and clip the first bolt, stepping left/ going straight up is a nice 5.10 variation.

By MJO
Jul 20, 2010

Nice climb; it is on my favorites list. I agree, use of double ropes is advantages and taller climbers have an easier time with the crux. The lower finger crack on the right side of the lower nose is a fun start, although I often find it a little wet and dirty....."that's what she said".

By kevin neville
From: Somerville, MA
Oct 28, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The start is cool, takes figuring out but then not too hard. Ran it in one pitch, barely barely reaching the rap tree (60m). Definitely grade it as a slab climb, and if you're not happy at 5.8 or 5.8+ slab, you won't be happy.

By John Gassel
From: Boston, MA
Jun 16, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

A fun climb with committing moves. Not sure why but I wasn't expecting the crux of this to be slabby. Don't make that same mistake.

There are 5.9 slab moves encountered at the first two bolts on P2 of this route (midway up) on the rounded arete, one of them with a ledge just below you once you commit. It's got a heady feel to it.

Beware rope drag if you link pitches together. I linked with P1 of Avenger and had enough rope with 60m doubles - barely.