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Cactus Cliff
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Short Man's Burden 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio and Richard Aschert, 2002
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 573
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Dec 27, 2002

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BETA PHOTO: Cactus Cliff - Right (1). The Price is Right is n...

Description 

Start just left of "Hurricane Hinzi". Climb up some short corners to the first bolt. Clip the first bolt and begin a series of hard moves with some long reaches. The crux is getting past the fourth bolt and reaching the anchor. Excellent climbing on good stone. People under 5'6" might have a hard time with the reaches.

Protection 

Five bolts lead to a two-bolt anchor.


Photos of Short Man's Burden Slideshow Add Photo
setting up for the first hard move
setting up for the first hard move

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By slim
Administrator
Feb 22, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Having done this one a couple times, I think the best way to do it is to climb through the first 4 bolts (maybe clip 5th with long runner) on Hurricane Hinzi and move left into the upper section of Short Man's Burden. If I remember correctly, this is how it was first put up. Hopefully someone will correct me if I'm wrong. Doing it this way is 2 stars - you get the fun lower bulge of HH and the fun upper section of SB.

The direct start is kind of a chosstrocity, and the climbing above can't redeem the bomb that it earns. The climbing through the first 2 bolts makes you feel kind of dirty, because you end up kind of moving to the right, instead of going straight up at 5.harder-than-12a.