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a. The Uberfall
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Unsorted Routes:

Short Job 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 2 pitches, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Gardiner, Mary Perry, and Carol Maken (1958)
Page Views: 685
Submitted By: Avery Maracek on Sep 27, 2012
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Description 

At the beginning of the Uberfall, start on a blazed trail above the carriage road, under the same ceiling as 69.

I haven't done the second pitch, but the first pitch is a cool climb. It makes a great top rope at the end of the day, and kind of challenging for its grade. It's easy to set up a top rope on Pitch 1 by walking/scrambling up in between Short Job and Nice 5.9 Climb .

P1: Follow the crack to a large ledge. Climb the next right-facing corner to ceiling and exit left (crux) to another ledge. Through the jumbled blocks, an overhang, and a short face to a large belay ledge with a small tree at the edge. 5.3, 50'.

P2 (from guidebook): Climb left-leaning ramp followed by a small crack. Move up and left (crux) to top and walk off left. 5.4, 80'.


Protection 

Standard Gunks rack. G-PG. Static/webbing to set up TR for first pitch.



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By kswissto
Oct 17, 2013
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c PG13

Climbed P1 and used rap tree to descend. P1 crux can be "protected" - if by protected you're okay with it being around a bunch of loose stuff looking like any fall will pull it down. DW says 5.3 first pitch, seems more like a 5.4.