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Rock 1
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Piece of Cake 
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Short Flake 

Short Flake 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: R. Kyle Horst and Larry DeAngelo 12/79
Page Views: 378
Submitted By: Steve Powell on Apr 6, 2003
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the flake
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Description 

Rock is coarse, but of decent quality. the best feature of the route are the hand jams. This route is the crack that is to the right of the prominent dike.


Protection 

Crack takes good gear. take a #4 camalot. two bolt anchor.



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By C Miller
Administrator
Feb 10, 2004
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

Do this route prior to doing Short Cake and it will make that route a bit more enjoyable. Zero stars out of five.

By Jon Leicht
Apr 23, 2007
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

ouch, i would not give it a bomb - easy beginner crack lead with some nice characteristics, by no means a classic, but we thought it a "fun" route

Did not need a #4 plenty of places for smaller cams, .75 - 2, even good spots for hexes etc

By Kyle Wills
From: San Diego CA
Sep 4, 2010

Definitely coarse, but definitely do-able if your jumping from one shady crack to the next and you over doing the great stuff on castle rock you might as well walk over and grab this one too.

By Rodger Raubach
Mar 10, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

Just barely an O.K. route, but not really worth the effort. Inside of crack was pretty crumbly. I called it a "bomb."