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Jan 2, 2011
The route in it's entirety.
whats your preffered knot of choice when you tie off the anchor? clove hitch? butterfly? Ive seen some tie a figure 8, but the 8 will fold over on itself if loaded from both sides. opinions? Greg G
From SLC, UT
Joined Oct 3, 2008
599 points
Jan 2, 2011
photo by Forest Woodward
If I'm dealing with a bomber 2-bolt anchor, I like to tie a clove hitch on one bolt for the second to jug on, and then a figure eight on the other bolt. Leave a bit of slack between the two knots.

Scott Bennett
Joined Jan 9, 2008
1,171 points
Jan 2, 2011
1st: i will make a $money$ powerpoint with a couple double length slings.

2nd: tie an 8 to the powerpoint for hommie to jug

3rd: with the rest i tie a clove for me. i like the clove because it's fairly easy to resize if i need more slack to get into the haul bag etc. plus, when you're resizing the knot you don't have to untie/unclip it. making it safer.

i think tying a butterfly powerpoint is cool too, but it eats up a bit more rope, making it harder to link pitches etc.
Joined Oct 15, 2010
5 points
Jan 2, 2011
P6 Bivy during the massive Rim Fire.
Bunny ear figure 8, or whatever you want to call it.

You can adjust for the angle of the line you are fixing.

If you are going to tie a figure 8 then a clove etc, may as well just tie ONE knot and be on your way.

This is a standard way to anchor whilst shortfixing.

When you take off, clove a screamer on one of the bolts, making sure you have sufficient slack to the main anchor point.

Don't Fall.

Double figure 8, Bunny ear figure 8
Double figure 8, Bunny ear figure 8
From sf ca
Joined Jan 29, 2007
483 points

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