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Zappa Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aid Line (Chockstone Roulette?) T 
Beside the Pillar T 
Big Hands Roof aka Zombie Woof T 
Blood Pulse T 
Calcite Fingers T 
Curve, The T 
Dirty Red Cam Corner T 
Far Right Corner T 
Flake (unknown there was no plaque) T 
Fork It (HVS) T 
Frank Zappa Appreciation Society (aka Cobra Roof), The T 
Green Cam Lie Back T 
Hands to OW T 
Hands to OW Chimney (unknown due to no plaque) T 
Hanging to the Right (unknown due to no plaque) T 
Leaning Corner (aka Moderation) T 
Left Leaner T 
Mr. Sheeley T 
My Big 3 Inch (no plaque at bottom) T 
One Bolt Wonder (unknown not a plaque) T 
OW Corner T 
Point 5 roof T 
Short Corner T 
Short Dihedral T 
Short, Some Hands T 
Slightly Overhanging Wide Corner (unknown no plaque) T 
Zig-Zag T 

Short Corner 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 2,068
Submitted By: Jesse Zacher on Mar 12, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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A classic corner.

Description 

This is a great, short climb on excellent stone. It is a good introduction to the art of the layback.

Location 

This is three feet right of the Moderation.

Protection 

Doubles of fingers. A #4 for the start and smaller towards the end.


Photos of Short Corner Slideshow Add Photo
Mikey.
Mikey.
Mike Keegan leading short but challenging corner, ...
BETA PHOTO: Mike Keegan leading short but challenging corner, ...
Perfect crack!
Perfect crack!

Comments on Short Corner Add Comment
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By Kevin Gillest
From: Arvada, CO
May 31, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This is a great route, BD #0.5 and 0.75 entire upper section, not to be missed at Zappa.
By John Peterson
Sep 13, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Very different to TR than to lead. Other than a tricky move into the wide part, everything was very obvious - it's just a question of endurance. Considerably easier if you hang a bit or have a top rope.

We used a #5 in the wide spot, but then it's green and purple all the way.
By slim
Administrator
Sep 13, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Wow, 10a? I assume you top roped it. FWIW, I find this one to be pretty similar in difficulty to 'Fork It'. With 'Fork It', you get the crux over early, and then it is easy. With this one, you get the crux slowly weighing down on you pretty much right to the end.

'Hanging a bit' would indeed make it 'seem' easier....
By Matthew Seymour
From: 1996 Dodge Van, USA
Jun 23, 2013

Don't be a Euro! Due to the way this thing leans, it is actually much easier to jam straight in than layback. Maybe 10- as a jam crack and harder if you don't have technique, but isn't everything?
By erik rieger
From: Nederland, CO
Mar 26, 2015

Just a gear note: a #5 is better for the pod. After that, it's all green Camalots/red Metolius. Purples are a bit tapped.
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