Short Cake  5.9

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 150 feet Consensus:  5.9 [details] FA:  John Hoffman, 1983 Submitted By:  Paul Rezucha on Nov 20, 2005 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Paul moving up to the arch

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Description 

Short Cake is an excellent face climb on beautiful solid granite. The climb goes up just right of the Jellyroll Arch start. Climb the Jellyroll Arch corner for 10' or so and turn the corner on the right onto the face just below the first bolt. Continue up on thin face passing 2 or 3 more bolts. At one point you get very close to Insidious Crack, the 5.6 climb to the right. At this point move left and follow an obvious line past horizontal and vertical cracks. Good gear protects this whole upper section. The last gear placement in a horizontal crack puts you about 15' below the tree with an unprotected lower angle slab to finish. If you made the bottom face moves ok, this will be no big deal. There is maybe a 5.8 move to get onto the slab and then easier ground to the top. About 50' of class 4 scrambling gets you to the very top of this section of rock. Now,the guide Rock Climbing Lake Tahoe by Mike Carville shows the start to be close to or on Insidious Crack to the right and step left onto the face to the first bolt (apparantly the original start) and the ending of this route going left into a wide crack to finish. This ending just didn't seem correct as the crack was much further left and why not continue a great face climb with an obvious and straight up face ending...

Protection 

This route is 1/2 sport and 1/2 trad, literally. The first 1/2 is 3 or 4 bolts quite widely spaced and the second half is all trad and can be adequately protected with small to medium gear. The pitch is very long at 150' and ends at the tree which can be used for an anchor along with the large block. Some long slings are useful here.

Photos of Short Cake Slideshow

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Paul on the face portion of Short Cake. That's Br...	Paul still on the face portion of Short Cake. He'...	Paul still on the face portion of Short Cake, the ...
Risley working the face portion of Short Cake. Br...	Risley going up over the arch of Short Cake.