|The Comp Wall
This is a great journey through steep patina plates, cracks, and edges.
P1: Follow the ramp to the left of the Splitter crack. Use a finger/hand crack (gear) to reach the first bolt. Angle back right to reach the steep juggy face above.
P2: Continue up the wall with more steep climbing to belay on a good ledge. A small wire could be placed after the last bolt, but it is easier here.
P3: Angle left to hit the arete for the final bolted pitch.
I highly recommend linking P1 and P2 with a 70M rope. A 60M rope would also probably work. You will need to back clean a couple clips and use long runners on a few key bolts to reduce drag, though.
Start up the ramp to the left of the Splitter crack
Light rack to 1.5 inches
Shop and Compare climbs the brown wall that is in ...
Dude on shop and Compare...didn't catch his name. ...
The final moves...
|By Carl Rene Pelletier|
From: Jackson, Wyoming
Sep 30, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
I'm not sure that a light rack is necessary. Getting to the first bolt a bit tricky...I guess that you could place a #2 cam in the crack before the first bolt, after that no need for gear...in my opinion. I carried a light rack only to have it clang around behind me throughout the climb. There is a place that you could place a #1 or #2 on the second pitch (it's a ways between bolt, but the climbing is pretty easy). I think that this was a really cool climb and very well bolted.
From: tacoma, toyota
Sep 23, 2010
Agreed, a number 2 camalot was nice before clipping the first bolt. Then I removed it after clipping the bolt for less rope drag. No other gear necessary. A fantastic sport route.
|By Mike Roghaar|
May 18, 2011
Did this route last week. Very fun and a great last pitch. I could see where a little gear could be used at the top of the second pitch but probably not needed as the climbing eases up.
|By Stan Pitcher|
From: SLC, UT
Oct 6, 2011
Fun route! Only gear I used was a single .5 camalot twice on the first pitch. Once before the first bolt and then another temp placement before clipping the 4th bolt. I used long slings on 2nd & 3rd bolts and had no rope drag. 1st half of last pitch is superb!
|By Matt Schroer|
From: Logan, Utah
Sep 17, 2013
Wow, what a fantastic route. It does not get any better than this at the grade at either City or Castles. Leave your cams in the car (unless you plan on doing Splitter, too), and only bring a handful of medium nuts to protect the opening moves to the first bolt. After that, it's well protected with bolts all the way to the top of the formation. The rock is steep and of uber-good quality on this one!