Shooting Star 5.11d
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Vince on Shooting Star
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Description Main face left of Condor Corner. Start low and left on face holds, then move into shallow seam on the right. Continue to top on the right side of the wall without using holds on Condor Corner. At the top, continue straight through overhanging rock for 11d, traverse left and use both cracks for 11a.
Protection Toprope setup - 2 trees 1 nut. Gear on route is there but sparse - the top crux is well protected.
BETA PHOTO: First half of the rack for SS, doesn't exactly ins...
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BETA PHOTO: Second half of the rack...ugly!
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Shooting stars are common near this formation
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| Comments on Shooting Star |
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By Trad Nanny
Sep 2, 2009
rating: 5.11c R
| Anyone ever lead this Paul? |
By Paul Jones
From: Madison, WI
Sep 4, 2009
| not sure - I would assume so, as there is some gear. Dave Groth or Rich Bechler might know |
By Alex A
Apr 19, 2010
| FA Pete Cleveland, of 5.11a var, FA direct finish 11d Alex Andrews,
to my Knowledge it has not been lead, it would be R/X, crux is safe,
some powerful moves at the crux,
worth the effort to find the crag, will not be easy to find, |
By Trad Nanny
Apr 19, 2010
rating: 5.11c R
| Sounds perfect.
It was hell to find even with the GPS coordinates. Heinous approach! |
By Trad Nanny
Apr 27, 2010
rating: 5.11c R
| Couple of versions here:
-Regular Route: Use good holds on right but nothing on the right side of the chimney and you get a nice 10c.
-Direct: Ignore all holds on the right arete and finish on left upper crack and you get a 11c.
-Double Direct: Go straight up face without right arete holds AND don't use the jug at the start of the left upper crack to go straight up the overhang to finish and it goes 12a.
Four stars if it wasn't so contrived. Gear is all micros in shallow seams, nothing bomber with a run out to the top. Something to hang on but holding a whipper is questionable. I went for the double direct pumped out and bailed left on the crack. I'll leave leading double direct for future generations :) |
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