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Condor Corner
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Condor Corner T,TR 
Joker, The T 
Salt Peter T 
Shooting Star TR 

Shooting Star 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  TR, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 555
Submitted By: Paul Jones on Aug 31, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Second half of the rack...ugly!

Description 

Main face left of Condor Corner. Start low and left on face holds, then move into shallow seam on the right. Continue to top on the right side of the wall without using holds on Condor Corner. At the top, continue straight through overhanging rock for 11d, traverse left and use both cracks for 11a.

Protection 

Toprope setup - 2 trees 1 nut. Gear on route is there but sparse - the top crux is well protected.


Photos of Shooting Star Slideshow Add Photo
Vince on Shooting Star
Vince on Shooting Star
First half of the rack for SS, doesn't exactly inspire confidence!
BETA PHOTO: First half of the rack for SS, doesn't exactly ins...
Shooting stars are common near this formation
Shooting stars are common near this formation

Comments on Shooting Star Add Comment
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By Tradoholic
Sep 2, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R

Anyone ever lead this Paul?
By Paul Jones
From: Madison, WI
Sep 4, 2009

not sure - I would assume so, as there is some gear. Dave Groth or Rich Bechler might know
By Alex A
Apr 19, 2010

FA Pete Cleveland, of 5.11a var, FA direct finish 11d Alex Andrews,
to my Knowledge it has not been lead, it would be R/X, crux is safe,
some powerful moves at the crux,
worth the effort to find the crag, will not be easy to find,
By Tradoholic
Apr 19, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R

Sounds perfect.

It was hell to find even with the GPS coordinates. Heinous approach!
By Tradoholic
Apr 27, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R

Couple of versions here:

-Regular Route: Use good holds on right but nothing on the right side of the chimney and you get a nice 10c.

-Direct: Ignore all holds on the right arete and finish on left upper crack and you get a 11c.

-Double Direct: Go straight up face without right arete holds AND don't use the jug at the start of the left upper crack to go straight up the overhang to finish and it goes 12a.

Four stars if it wasn't so contrived. Gear is all micros in shallow seams, nothing bomber with a run out to the top. Something to hang on but holding a whipper is questionable. I went for the double direct pumped out and bailed left on the crack. I'll leave leading double direct for future generations :)