This is a good route with aesthetic moves but as with many routes on this rock it seems some of the edges are wearing away and perhaps the grade is ticking up a bit as a result. The bolts are updated. To supplement the bolts a red alien works between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. A small nut between the 3rd and 4th bolts and a #4 camalot above the last bolt protecting the last crux move would give you some additional piece of mind and gear at your waste as you pull the move.
I can't believe I am still stupid enough to post comments about routes being tough. I understand that many folks will find this route easy, that others did it without clipping the bolts, or that climbing it naked, free solo, under a full moon is the only way to fully experience it. All the same, I found this thing tough for the grade. It has a few hard sections, with varied and fairly technical solutions to each. One way to get acquainted with it is to do the superb 10c to the right (Frogs of a Feather - climbs way easier), then drop the TR on it. OK, let the slagging begin...
classic line. Thank you Kyle! bring a blue alien, #4 new camalot, #2 camalot, #.75 camalot. you'll be psyched. Don't screw with gear at the crux, just SHOOT UP!
By Brett Winterbottom From: Estes Park, Colorado Mar 29, 2014 rating: 5.11-6c22VIII+22E3 5c
Great sport route! This really makes you stick a few reachy moves if your on the shorter side like me, I understand why the name is what it is. Top runs out quite a bit but is super easy climbing. DO watch how you clip your first QD, due to the traverse left it can make for an ugly fall to open the gate and deck. Its not a hard clip on the second bolt but just as a warning.