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(3) Red Wall
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Classic Crack T 
Conspiracy (aka Kashmir Direct), The S 
Critical Mass S 
Hard Body S 
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Hit The Highway Pitch 1 S 
Kashmir S 
Mr. Bentley TR 
No Friction T 
On the Loose TR 
Physical Graffiti T 
Pinhead S 
Red Eye S 
Sheer Energy T,S 
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Shoot From the Hip T,S 
Thai Stick S 

Shoot From the Hip 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
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Page Views: 1,044
Submitted By: peachy spohn on Jul 21, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Amy on Shoot From the Hip. Hard Body is the bolt-...

Description 

With a technical start and a powerful middle, Shoot From the Hip offers a little bit of everything. The crux comes roughly half way up the climb, just past the first clip and requires a strenuous lock-off and dynamic move. However, the delicate start or the tricky top section could cause you to fall too.

Location 

On the right side of Red Wall, just right of Hard Body.

Protection 

Bolts and small cams or nuts for the start.


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By Ian G.
From: PDX, OR
Aug 2, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Wow, hardest .10c ever! Although, i guess it helps if you don't do it in 90 degree heat....

The first bolt needs to be replaced or tightened. Gear beta is pretty easy, yellow TCU, blue TCU, blue alien. I took nuts up but didn't place any, the crack is a little weird.
By Micah Klesick
Administrator
From: Vancouver, WA
Oct 3, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Not sure where 5.10c came from...
By Micah Klesick
Administrator
From: Vancouver, WA
Nov 9, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

All lead bolts have been upgraded to SS bolts and hangers.
By Nathan Scherneck
From: Portland, OR
Feb 21, 2015
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Nice, thanks for the bolt upgrade.
By Bryan Hall
From: Bend, Oregon
Mar 31, 2015

This route does feel like a very hard 10c onsight. I don't think the description posted here is accurate though. The beta is strange to figure out first go, but once you've climbed the route there isn't any strenuous lock-off or dynamic move required.

Chimney technique will get you passed the first bolt and into a fingerlock and then up to the lieback. Look for the holds that aren't necessarily painted in chalk. There are multiple unchalked bomber holds on this route. Up top it can be hard to find the best hold for your right hand as your left reaches to the final ledge before the upper slab. Technique will get you through instead of power.
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